Orange County, Virginia’s tribute to legendary Black chef Edna Lewis kicks off this month.
Even among novices with piffling to no knowledge of the kitchen , The Joy of Cookingis one of the most well know cookbooks around . Julia Child ’s work is probably a close second . But the name Edna Lewis , depend on who you ask , is either come across with a quizzical looking or a smile of pure admiration .
For those in the know , Lewis was ( andis , thank you very much ) the Grand Dame of Southern Cooking . Published in 1972,The Edna Lewis Cookbookis said to be one of the first cookery book by a Black woman that did n’t hold back the reliable generator ’s identity . Her follow up , 1976’sA Taste of Country Cooking , was even more democratic , thanks to its mix of recipe and memory board of turn up in Freetown , a community in Virginia that was fall by her grandfather along with other formerly enslaved the great unwashed .
In purity of the 50th day of remembrance of the book that started it all , Orange County , Virginia is compensate homage to its own this yr with the opening of theEdna Lewis Menu Trail , a food - fueled solemnisation that run from Thanksgiving , 2022 to Memorial Day , 2023 .
Edna Lewis Foundation
It ’s worth take note that Lewis did n’t simply drop a line cookbooks , but anthology of prized recipes heavily focused on seasonality . Ragout of lamb and green beans in the spring , spicy butter biscuits with fresh strawberries in summertime , and roast pheasant and Malus pumila brown betty in the colder calendar month all make appearances throughout the pages . That same focus on seasonal and homegrown ingredients issue forth to life throughout the seven Orange County restaurant participating in the track , with each showcasing a Lewis - inspired dish on their card .
Coopers Cookin and Catering , for one , is known for their astral fried poulet and predilection for Southern cookery passed down from generations . As such , becoming a part of the trail was a raw fit .
“ A fortune of our recipe [ from ] my mother and auntie were similar to a lot of hers — our restaurant is catered around recipes that were [ passed ] on to us , ” says Coopers co - owner , Denise Thompson . “ To be a part of this Black chronicle is such a thanksgiving . ”
Lady Mary’s Bakery
In some mode , placement on the lead felt downright elysian . Thompson had never actually heard of Lewis until about a year ago , when one of her customers mentioned Lewis ’ name and her connection to the county .
“ I guess about two week [ afterward ] , they returned and purchase us our very own copy of one of her cookbooks , all before we knew this food for thought trail would happen , ” adds Thompson .
For their contribution , Coopers animate Lewis ’ signature Quiche Lorraine and bass stunner Malus pumila pie , only throw subtle tweak like substituting pepperjack cheese and adding allspice , respectively , to give the sweetheart more of a boot .
James Marshall/Corbis Historical/Getty Images
Elsewhere , Lenny Schafer ofClearwater Grill & Cateringwas also fresh to Lewis , but quickly constitute law of similarity in their preparation styles .
“ When I looked at Edna Lewis ’s cookbook , [ it ] reminded me of my first Book of Job , ” Schafer note . It was the committal to simpleness done well that made Schafer want to be a part of the Trail .
Clearwater ’s menu admit sauteed rib pork chops , whipped unfermented potatoes , and Apple Brown Betty . Each mesa will also have a unforesightful biographical scorecard covering Lewis and her accomplishment .
Clearwater Grill & Catering
away from tossing in a few pinches of saltiness , Schafer kept the recipes authentic , no change necessary . “ She was a great chef , and I require everyone to taste her recipe as is , ” he says . “ Anything less would not be a proper testimonial to her life . ”
One Orange County mental institution that Lewis had a decades - longsighted relationship with wasVintage Restaurant at the Inn at Willow Grove . Even after moving from Orange ( she live in New York , DC , and Atlanta throughout her life story ) , Lewis often rejoin to Virginia to bring with the Inn ’s chef , and even start a chestnut festival utilizing the property ’s harvest .
The Inn ’s culinary director , Andrew Eppley , maintains a connexion to Lewis that dates back to 2010 . As an intern atNorth Carolina ’s Fearrington House , he remembers assist Lewis ’ effete chocolate souffle . This was one of her most famous recipes , one she perfected while process as a chef at New York ’s Cafe Nicholson in the late 1940s .
The Inn at Willow Grove
Fast forward more than a decennary later , and Eppley ’s contribution to the lead is a strangled lapin goner with a multiplier onion Soubise , mushroom cloud , and collard . “ Rabbit is a protein that ’s not as vulgar at the dinner board as it once was , ” he explicate . “ It was an important staple fiber on the Lewis family farm when Edna was growing up in Freetown , often being prepared at the starting time of the fall hunting season . ”
“ By bringing her dishes back to life , guests will experience the savory flavors she grew up with , ” says Lori Carter , communications conductor for The Inn at Willow Grove . “ It ’s a tradition deliver from families thriving on their demesne and sharing its seasonal amplitude with their community through fellowship and real food for thought . ”
Edna Lewis Foundation
