But with Mississippi River beaches, Frank Lloyd Wright buildings, and goat butter.
I ’d want to visit the Driftless Area since I first heard of it about a year ago . COVID and its residual fallout limited my wife and I to road misstep travelling throughout most of the past two age , and that meant researching all the amazing situation within driving distance of our Chicago dwelling house . We didthe Upper Peninsula , dip our toe into everyGreat Lake , spend weekend exploringIndianapolis , Louisville , andNashville , and pitched a collapsible shelter everywhere fromStarved Rockto theIndiana Dunes .
But the Driftless ? That remained uncharted territorial dominion — at least until we book an Airbnb , loaded up the Jeep , and set our sights on westernWisconsin , the promise of rolling J. J. Hill and farm - overbold cheese beckoning us all the way up I-90 .
To put it simply , the Driftless Area is a topographic and bionomical anomaly , stretching 24,000 solid land mile along the Mississippi River from southwestern Wisconsin and Minnesota down to northeastern Iowa and the northwest recess of Illinois . For reason well left to the scientists to excuse , the Ice Age spared this region from a prolonged frosty coating , in bout preventing far-flung arctic deposits — or “ drift”—from stamp out off the exist environmental characteristic and leveling the earth .
Bet you didn’t know the Midwest had hills like this.|Unsplash/Ethan Walsweer
striking bluff , lush forests , and steep gorges with sweeping vistas abound in these parts , as do incredible views of the Mississippi and its many tributaries . Elevations can soar up to 1,720 foot at point , and thanks to its distinct innate make-up , local wildlife , Department of Agriculture , and ground pattern mirror those ascertain in New England — a sharp demarcation from the flat prairieland that dominates so much of the Midwest .
Local geology made the Driftless deep in born resources like lead and atomic number 30 . Thousands of miners , many of them immigrant , cluster to the region back when Wisconsin was merely a district , making it the most thickly settled area for miles . The tiny 19th hundred hamlet of Belmont in Lafayette County , home to the state ’s First Capitol Historic Site , proudly showcases this account , as does the University of Wisconsin ’s mascot — many of those former transplants lived fulltime inside their mines , bring in them the sobriquet “ badgers . ”
Throughout the years , the land has given rise to other industry , from award - winning cheesemaking to world - renowned aesthetic endeavor . It ’s here that you ’ll find Uplands Cheese , the kinsperson - owned creamery behind the highly sought after Rush Creek Reserve ( basically the Pappy Van Winkle of the cheese man ) . Iconoclastic designer Frank Lloyd Wright settle in the Driftless for X , leave behind a bequest that continues to shape the surface area via his 800 - acreTaliesin demesne , proclaimed a World Heritage Site in 2019 .
Summer and Fall are Wisconsin trees’ time to shine.|Driftless Wisconsin
But back to 2022 . We picked out an Airbnb in Fountain City , a minor town near the area ’s far northwestern edge just across the Mississippi from Winona , Minnesota . Home to a quaint Main Street , a few interesting bars , and a wayside curiosity called “ Rock in the House , ” Fountain City ’s universe taps out at around 810 . The firm we rent did n’t even have a street figure — instead , the GPS led us down a dusty filth road that dumped us right in front of the driveway . The dog , happily unleashed , begin chase after rabbit into a wooded patch above the renting , and we got to mold on our own Driftless itinerary .
From offbeat attractions and pristine wage increase to creation - class dining and a whole lot of warm hospitality , Wisconsin ’s Driftless Area is chock full of affair to keep the average visitor upright and fussy . Here ’s what you need to know .
Cruise one ofAmerica’s most scenic drives
No matter where you ’re drive in from , make it a priority to spend at least part of the journeying along theGreat River Road — AKA Wisconsin State Highway 35 . The 250 - land mile - retentive itinerary twists and turns its way of life through 33 profoundly historic townsfolk and gorgeous foliage , all the while hug the Mississippi River . Between colossal bridges , postcard - double-dyed vistas , ancient rock establishment , and strike cliffsides , it ’s no wonder it go the charge as one of Wisconsin ’s ’ most popularscenic byway .
Get the lay of the land on a leisurely hike
If you ’re looking for prize access to the Great Outdoors , you ’ve make it . The Driftless is littered with park , conserves , refuges , and natural areas , most of them clump along the bank of the Mississippi and Kickapoo River Valleys . divers habitat attract hordes ofrare migrant birdsand other unusual wildlife , while manmade features likehiking and biking paths , scenic lookouts , fishing piers , and rustic campgrounds describe in the human beings .
Up north , two state parks — MerrickandPerrot — are both excellent spot to get your terms . At Merrick in Fountain City , you could follow three miles of well - trodden trails to get a glance of the Mississippi - fed wetlands below , stopping to scrounge for mushrooms and other wild victual as you go . Over at Perrot , 1,200 acres stretch out before you , broken up by sailplane bluffs overlooking the meeting of the Trempealeau and Mississippi river . From there you’re able to merge onto theGreat River State Trail , a 24 - naut mi surface area democratic with cyclists look to stretch out their legs against a breathless background .
Elsewhere , a smattering of State Natural Areas provide a slightly less tough foray into nature . The 6,446 - acreTrempealeau National Wildlife Refugehas long been a hub for monumental Bald Eagles and other critters , while Buffalo County’sWhitman Bottoms Floodplain Forest State Natural Areabuzzes with majestic Hero of Alexandria , laying title to one of the state ’s gravid rookery .
You’ll find plenty of Americana classics here.|Buffalo County, Wisconsin
The Kickapoo Valley Reserve , deposit between La Farge and Ontario , has multiple dedicated and motley - use trail throughout its 8,569 Akka , each with sizable chance to mention cohabitating coinage . And just northward of Prairie du Chien rest theLimery Ridge Savannah , one of the last unexploited bluffs perched above the Mississippi River , and the idealistic stage setting for distinguish colorful songbirds flit amid the open oak woodland .
Cool off in the mighty Mississippi
Raise your hand if you did n’t fuck the Mississippi River had beach . Strange but true , a net of sandy shores welcomes swimmers , wader , and sunbathers every summer . Wyalusing Public Beachin Bagley holds it down as a family - friendly respite bordered by canoe trails . Over in La Crosse , Pettibone Beachis a sporty option , with offhanded games of catch and beach volleyball round out a disc golf game area , sportfishing docks , and onsite kayak rentals . Go number .
Pull over for oddball roadside attractions
convey on the kitsch — this is the Midwest , after all . Starting in Fountain City , winking and you ’ll miss the ingress toRock in the House , a local watershed whose small deal painted sign has beckon drivers along North Shore Drive since the mid-1990s . pull up into the curving drive , however , and you ’ll encounter something you wo n’t soon forget : a 55 - ton boulder bisect the hindquarters of the modest undivided - fib house , shards of siding and plaster decay around its craggy the great unwashed .
The mighty stone rolled down the pitcher’s mound and smashed into what once was Maxine and Dwight Anderson ’s primary bedroom in April 1995 . No one was suffer , thank good , and the house was afterwards purchase by an area genuine estate investor who turn the site into a museum . The new owner continue everything utterly inviolate , from the ruinous rock to the kitchen ’s cheery wallpaper and outdated appliances , add only displays showcasing relevant newspaper clippings and a few piece of geologic information . woefully , the museum closed in 2021 , but visitor can still take the air around the outside of the house and peer into its windows for a cheeseparing look .
Kinstone Megalithic Gardenis yet another Fountain City pilot . The sprawl candid - aura exhibit has been equate to Wisconsin ’s Stonehenge , a mystical aggregation of rock formation distribute out over 30 rolling acres . For $ 10 , passersby can cheat on the ground for as long as they like , agree out the dramatic installations , meandering through labyrinth , and pointing out one of the garden ’s many resident cats . They also deem regular consequence on the property , including artistic production shows , concerts , celebrations , and yoga classes .
Buckle up—curves are definitely ahead.|Wisconsin Great River Road
A trip down to La Crosse brings you to the foot ofthe macrocosm ’s big six pack(no , you ca n’t drink it ) . City Brewery ’s towering bright tanks stand up 54 feet in the zephyr , swathed in La Crosse Lager labels to make them resemble six tremendous beer cans . Fun fact : They were originally the brainchild of G. Heileman Brewery , paint with Old Style Lager branding in 1969 as a successful selling ploy . And if you do add up away thirsty as all get - out , look at dropping byBathtub Spring . The ripple Star Valley beacon has been treating drivers to fresh , water ice - cold spring water via a simple bare wiretap jutting out of a wayside brook for decennary . rive over when you see the porcelain bathtub ( it acts as a compendium reservoir ) and avail yourself to a drink good manners of the tin cups chained to the piping .
Fuel up with some hearty home cooking
Beyondbrandy - transfix Old Fashionedsandsqueaky high mallow curd , Wisconsin dining is synonymous with supper lodge , those lovable full - service restaurants that address you like household whether it ’s your very first Pisces Christopher Fry or your 1,000th prime rib phonograph recording . The Driftless boasts its fair ploughshare of timber supper golf club , from the whimsicalGolden Frog in Fountain City , lay down 1878 , to classic likeWestby ’s Old Towne Inn Supper Club(order an Ice Cream Drink and thank us later),Sullivan ’s Supper Club in Trempealeauwith its riverfront views , andDigger ’s Sting , a La Crosse habitue transude with retro authenticity .
If a steak dinner party with all the reparation is n’t in the cards , a host of place - back bars and brewpub have your back . Highlights includeMonarch Public Housein Fountain City , a friendly Irish pub that go out all the manner back to 1894 ( we figured the dragon - centrical decor was a late addition ) . The self - proclaimed oldest continually operating tavern in Wisconsin , it ’s decked out in historical artifacts from the hand - carved oak tree backbar to the pressed Sn ceilings and everything in between . Grab a pint of their proprietaryFountain City Brewing Company Fountain Brew , carry up on the patio beneath the shade of a monstrous dogwood tree , and do n’t sleep on the Irish Nachos .
If you ’re in the climate for wood - fire artisan Proto-Indo European lace with topically sourced toppings , Suncrest Gardens Pizza Farmis another stellar choice . Make indisputable to bring in a duck soup blanket so you may circularise out and enjoy the pastoral surroundings while you junket .
The Driftless Area’s cup runneth over with natural escapes.|Driftless Wisconsin
Still hungry ? Swing pastCastlerock Sourdough ’s Bread Hutin Fountain City . In later June 2020 , achieve sourdough master Britta McColl raise an orange storage unit of measurement at the edge of her driveway and commence stocking it day by day with her smart - parched loaves . What started as a manner to supplement income and utilise products during the pandemic turned into a hit . McColl , now back to her regular farmers market round , go along to replete the shelves with snowy , rye , cinnamon raisin , jalapeno cheddar , and more , all pulled right from the oven . entrust your payment in the whorl corner and aid yourself .
Stock up at a local creamery (or three)
What ’s a trip to America ’s Dairyland without stuffing yourself full of cheese ? See if you could detect the Driftless ’ particular terrior by sampling your way through prize - bring home the bacon modest - plenty cheeses , butters , ice cream , and other pleasant-tasting dairy products . kinsperson - owned and -operated since 1917,Nordic Creameryhas picked up quite a few honour over the years , reset the throat their wares from a gift shop class just outdoors of Westby . find fault up a tubful of goat butter — desire us on this one — and peruse the wide regalia of spreadable , hard , and soft cheeses on offer ( the ice cream is n’t half uncollectible , either ) .
Elsewhere , Arena Cheese , birthplace of Wisconsin ’s original Colby - Jack , is one of the oldest creameries in the state and definitely worth a visit if you detect yourself in the Arena domain . The same go forCarr Valley Cheesein La Valle , a century - old high mallow works that strictly adheres to traditional cognitive process .
And then there’sUplands , the aforementioned Pappy Van Winkle of the curd - savvy , which perches atop Pleasant Ridge in Dodgeville . The farm ( still family - run , of course of instruction ) is n’t generally capable for visitors , but you may pick up turn of their nutty , Alpine - style Pleasant Ridge Reserve at nearby retailers likeSpring Green General StoreandSchurman ’s Cheese in Dodgeville . One tiny nibble of the delicacy,—produced during the summertime months from sess - fed milk and encased in an all - natural , washed rind — and you ’ll realise why it ’s literally America ’s most - awarded cheese . Or abide your time until November , when they relinquish their even - more - sought - after Rush Creek Reserve , a decadent , custard - like autumnal show-stopper that sell out faster than you’re able to say , “ evanesce the staff of life . ”
Merrick State Park’s underbrush turns into little green islands when the river rises.|Photo by Meredith Heil
Squad goals are real at Trempealeau National Wildlife Refuge.|Trempealeau National Wildlife Refuge
Swimming in the Mississippi? Sure.|Prairie du Chien
Kinstone Megalithic Garden, AKA Wisconsin’s Stonehenge.|Photo by Meredith Heil
It’s a rock. In a house.|Photo by Meredith Heil
Prepare to be wowed.|Lamar Advertising of Central Wisconsin
Dig into succulent prime rib at a classic Wisconsin supper club.|Digger’s Sting Restaurant
The (self-proclaimed) oldest continually operating bar in Wisconsin.|Monarch Public House
Shhh—the Castlerock Sourdough loaves are sleeping.|Photo by Meredith Heil
Nordic Creamery pulls out all the stops.|Nordic Creamery
Uplands Cheese Company’s flagship Pleasant Ridge Preserve.|Photo courtesy of Uplands Cheese Company
