The Mangazina di Rei—and its monthly Nos Zjilea festivities—is a tangible link to the island’s past.
Most visitor who find their way toBonairestick to its outer perimeter — and for good reason : The Netherland Antilles island is enveloped by a turquoise juicy protected marine ballpark sprout with some of the best shore diving in the world . It ’s why most people come here , after all . And if they ’re not diving they ’re kitesurfing , boating , snorkel diving , or participating in all other manner of aquatic adventure .
But drive inland to the village of Rincón , and you ’ll see the Bonaire ’s heart . The oldest village of the island ’s two , Rincón was built by the Spaniards in 1527 , blot out enough to stay off the radar of pirate but elevated enough to follow the surround . Here you ’ll still see evidence of a dwindling farming living in the form of kunuku , or orchard , plot of agricultural acres protect by cacti fence that once belonged to the enslaved . Spindly , prickly , but also esthetically interesting , it ’s pretty obvious why these barriers were so effective in keeping want farm animal corralled and unwanted wildlife out .
As Bonaire ’s moneymaking tourism industriousness continue its economic takeover , the farming kunuku sprightliness has withered . But there is one place where you’re able to still connect with the island ’s pastoral roots , and perhaps even taste your hand at build one of those fencing ( hopefully without sticking yourself ): theMangazina di Reicultural shopping centre .
The cacti fencing in this kunuku is surprisingly effective.|Focused Adventures/Shutterstock
How do you keep a settled island ’s culturewhen the outside world is constantly threatening to swallow up it ? It ’s a query that extends far beyond the Caribbean . One root : get with tactual objects that serve as contact to the past . In 1996,the Mangazina di Rei Foundationwas established with financing help from the Dutch political science , not only to preserve Bonaire ’s heritage — an amalgamation of Indigenous , African , Caribbean , and European influences along with their own melting Mary Jane creole language , Papiamentu — but also to give Bonairian young a post to congregate safely while facilitate senior members in the residential area stave off isolation .
The foundation ’s almost two - century - sure-enough whitewashed building brims with a history of its own : A former government building , ration for the enslaved were once stored inside these walls . ( After falling into disrepair , the building was rediscovered in the 1970s by a politician on an iguana Leigh Hunt , which isveryBonaire . )
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The complex ’s main attraction is a museum , and it ’s an excellent place for any visitant to begin their exploration of the island . Here , you could come out yourself in Bonaire ’s colonial trajectory , from early occupation by the Indigenous South American Caquetio - Arawaks , to the arrival of Spanish conquerors , to , finally , Dutch settler . And you ’ll get wind the ground the Dutch made their way from the Netherlands over to the southerly Caribbean in the first place : salt , which they desperately involve to preserve their herring — or their “ White Gold . ” The salt Pan are still there today , a salient visual ofwhite pyramid and pink pansfor those go far to the island by carpenter’s plane .
To mine the saltiness , the Kingdom of the Netherlands necessitate manpower , but the Caquetio - Arawaks were n’t strong enough for the oeuvre they take . So they shipped them out and make for in a unexampled set of laborer . On the walls of the museum , you ’ll learn about the so - called “ Triangle of Trade , ” where the Dutch moved commodity like gem from Europe to Africa , traded the items for people , and then carted them to the Caribbean and the Americas to change them for rummy and spices . It ’s something that even Izaïn Mercera , the center ’s born - and - put up Bonairian operational director , admits he was n’t mindful of until he take off . “ I learned the history at work , ” he read . Which mean that , at least for him , the Mangazina di Rei is very much accomplishing its end .
Exhibits stretch to natural resources and island wildlife . The museum covers Bonaire ’s unique flora , fauna , and geology , delving into the ways in which the island ’s limestone coral makeup was key in the maturation of everything from agriculture to computer architecture . You ’ll find out why donkeys now roam the roadway ( the Spanish who brought them in and subsequently left them to their own devices ) , and who owns the Goat you might blemish on occasion . ( It ’s farmers — their goats will go home as the sun blend down , unless they get bored beforehand and meander back . )
Izaïn Mercera at the Mangazina di Rei.|Courtesy of Tourism Corporation Bonaire
You ’ll also graph the history of land management in Bonaire , from 100 % administration plantations to change one - fifth part of the island into a national parking area , plus the influence of various cultures on its cuisine . You ’ll read about traditions and folklore collected through consultation with the house physician of Rincón as their pictures hang nearby so you’re able to put a font to their word . And they ’ll give you links to extra resources should you want to discover more , likeArchive Bonaire , Bonaire.tvfor picture clip , andbonairefamily.comfor learning about Bonairian lineage .
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Learn some words in Papiamentu ( for freshman , masha danki = thank you , hopi dushi = savor estimable ) , and try out musical instrument like the conch and barí , which can be traced to Africa . “ In Curaçao , they call it tambú , but here it ’s more soft , so we call it barí , ” says Mercera . “ It ’s the tradition during this prison term of the year to try masses playing on the membranophone — it was a way the slaves state emotions . However , some songs were strictly gossip , but in code , so only some masses know who they are singing about . ”
And those local cactus fall up again , this time in reference to the varieties of liquor that can be made from fermenting and make pure it . Want to taste it ? Thedistilleryis just down the street in Rincón , in its own diachronic digs .
Preservation is one thing , but how do you pass on the legacy of a waning civilization ? Bring the artefact and traditions to life . Mercera is lovesome of say that the Mangazina di Rei is where you’re able to , “ see , feel , and sample the finish of Bonaire . ” But it ’s not just verbalize . melodic heritage is impart through plan likeTalento Kultural , which connects student with senior for folkloric singing , medicine , and dance lessons . These songs are then performed atNos Zjilea , an exuberant fete which , since 2014 , has commingle education , flora , crafts , food , and bouncy music into a big political party on the last Saturday of each calendar month , with all take funneled back into the center ’s educational offerings .
As it grew in ambit , the fete ’s very name shifted to reflect its evolving mission . “ At first , it was call Culture Market , then it was call Creole Market , translated . And from there we decided to call it Nos Zjilea , because it was more than a elementary mart , ” says Mercera . The name is now of Portuguese descent . “ Nos Zjilea is when you ’re in your nature — like Mickey Mantle playing baseball , or you ’re a Pisces in the body of water . You ’re in your element . ”
Performances during the year are concenter on four themes that mirror Bonaire ’s eclectic makeup : Simadan , a harvest festival born of the kunukeros ( or farmers ) , with its own call and reply euphony ; the Spanish fete of San Juan i San Pedro in June ; the ego - explanatory Musika Folkloriko ; and , currently , Pone Barí Ronka , a testimonial to the African barí tympan .
During Nos Zjilea the museum is open for consider amid the many trade stands , impudent succus purveyors , and food for thought vendors with stews , curry , Pisces the Fishes , and Funchi . Do n’t miss out on homemade bread , directly out of the stone oven which you may observe — and smell — being cooked up on land site . There ’s also a new educational presentation each calendar month , crop from seminar on gardening to the symbolization of the Bonairian flag . Last month , it wasHerbs as Medicine , a public lecture that embody the Bonairian connection to the domain .
The view in Rincón.|Andy Troy/Shutterstock
“ There were unlike types of herb and their benefit , ” says Mercera . “ If I had to add up the welfare up , I would likely lie to you — one was good for blood pressure , another for diabetes . And one was mean for the charwoman , let me put it like that . ”
Each young Nos Zjilea theme is badger onthe Mangazina di Rei ’s Facebook Pagevia avideostarring Mercera himself , always donning a husk lid . Keep an eye out for next month ’s , and until then , you could always drop by the cultural parking lot every Tuesday through Friday from 9 am to 4 pm . And if you plan on trying your hand at building a cactus fence , consider bringing along some glove .
A Simadan celebration.|Courtesy of Tourism Corporation Bonaire
(Carefully) building a cactus fence.|Courtesy of Tourism Corporation Bonaire
