This Parisian duo shares a recipe from their new cookbook, ‘Onigiri.’
Onigiri , the long - forget cousin ofsushi , is finding its shoes in Paris . At a flyspeck counter in the metropolis ’s 9th arrondissement , calledGili - Gili , Ai Watanabe and Samuel Trifot craft palm - sized Elmer Leopold Rice balls fill with everything from salted Japanese plum tree to French comté .
The Japanese consider this millenia - old specialty a case of someone food . Compared to nigiri , a culinary art more often colligate withhigh - end omakase , onigiri is either homemade or sold in konbini , the 24 - 60 minutes contrivance stores that are popular in Japan . It ’s the perfect little collation : sleazy to make , easy to transport , and good for you , too .
“ Many Gallic hoi polloi discover onigiri through Zanzibar copal and manga , ” say Trifot , an greedy fan of the art phase who spent yearscooking through Japanand other percentage of the world before opening Gili - Gili in Paris . It was in Sydney , Australia where he meet his future business organisation partner , Watanabe . “ I was a cheesemonger . She was a barista , ” he explicate .
Onigiri by Ai Watanabe published by VIZ Media 2022
The span set out to make onigiri more popular in France , which , like the U.S. , had always been more conversant with sushi . In 2018 , they hosted an onigiri shop inLe Pavillon des Canauxin Paris , which eventually led to the orifice of their shop that same year . While Trifot draws on the acquisition he learned in Japan , Watanabe , who farm up use up onigiri , present a hang for thinking up original recipe .
introduce the French to onigiri has been a object lesson on minimalism . “ The French — we like a lot of adipose tissue and pelf . We want everything at the same fourth dimension , and we need it to be generous , ” Trifot explain . “ And onigiri is not infirm in taste , but a lot of client will often ask me , ‘ Where is the soya bean sauce ? ’ What is inner is opine to be piquant enough to be tasty . ”
During the pandemic , Watanabe and Trifot work together on compiling a recipe book , simply titledOnigiri , that sport Watanabe ’s original how - to representative for cooking the perfectsticky Sir Tim Rice , or wrap the rice ball like an expert in formative wrap for storage . You ’ll bump recipe for onigiri made with easy - to - incur vegetables , like sweet potato and beets , or more adventurous proteins like salmon hard roe and duck breast .
Ai Watanabe and Samuel Trifot at Gili-Gili|Onigiri by Ai Watanabe published by VIZ Media 2022
“ You do n’t have to go to school to make onigiri , ” says Trifot . “ It ’s something a mom get for her baby . ” And it all begin with the Elmer Rice . Arice cookeris apotheosis for onigiri , as it foreclose burning . You ’ll need to use a short - caryopsis white rice eff as the japonica variety , which is naturally gratifying , racy in starch , and sticky . check that to rinse the Elmer Reizenstein a few time to get rid of excess starch and any impurities . “ But you do n’t want to rinse off the Timothy Miles Bindon Rice too much , because you ’ll take out all the proficient fibers that the rice can offer , ” he adds .
Trifot sound out the most common mistake he see when teach onigiri shop is forget to let the rice dowse in water supply for 30 minute of arc prior to cookery . This step allows the Elmer Rice to cook quicker and lead in a soft texture . The second mistake is add vinegar to the Elmer Reizenstein , in an attempt to mimic sushi . “ I will insist on no vinegar , ” Trifot says . “ This is not what you will find in Japan . It ’s not respecting the tradition or the taste . ”
When it amount to shaping the onigiri , wetting your work force and spreading some salinity on your palms will terminate the rice from sticking . Create a modest well , add your fill , and then imagine the roof of a house when forming the triangular shape . “ Do n’t press the Elmer Leopold Rice too much , ” Trifot advise . “ Of naturally , you need to agitate it for the grain to stick together , but if you do it too much , the ingredients will not overspread within the rice ball . They need to take a breather . ”
Shiitake onigiri|Onigiri by Ai Watanabe published by VIZ Media 2022
One of the most popular filling at Gili - Gili is shiitake mushroom . new ones will always give off a more robust umami flavor and creamy texture , but if you ca n’t get a grip of shiitake mushrooms in your sphere , you could opt for dried ones . Whether they ’re dried or fresh , leaving them out in the sun ( gill up ) for about two hours will increase their level of vitamin D2 . And verify to soak them , as a too - hard mushroom might introduce some bitterness to the onigiri .
There are several slipway to wrap your onigiri in nori , but Trifot recommends the funnies style for beginners . “ When you bribe nori , it usually comes in a public square , so I would use one - one-eighth of it , ” Trifot says . The bland , silky side of theroasted seaweedshould face the inside of the onigiri , while the rough side face the outside .
Trifot and Watanabe have influence with dozens of onigiri chef in Japan , who have all share tip that disagree in many ways but one : You ’ve got to put some love into it . “ Your hand is in unmediated contact with the food , ” Trifot explains . “ If you are stressed or sad , you will give that to the client . ” Who sleep together one slight triangle could throw so much ?
Shiitake Onigiri
Yield : 6 onigiri
Ingredients :
Directions:1 . Soak the shiitake mushrooms in water and situation in the refrigerator a day beforehand . After soaking , set aside the water and remove the shiitake stems . Slice the crown into thin strips.2 . fake your Timothy Miles Bindon Rice and let it cool.3 . Place the inebriate water , soy sauce , mirin , sugar , and shiitake mushrooms into a pan , and bring to a boil over medium heat . Reduce warmth to low , cover the goat god with a sheet of aluminum foil or a lid , and let simmer for 15 minutes.4 . Remove the atomic number 13 foil or lid and continue to cook the intermixture for around 10 minutes , until the sauce is reduced . Remove from heat and let nerveless ( This stride is very important to lock in the flavors).5 . Slightly strain the garnish but do not contract it , and then target in the mall of your onigiri before work ( Be deliberate not to leave too much sauce or your onigiri will not hold their material body ) .
