Find unexpected treasures in Chettinad.

Deep in the heart of South India , hour away from any major cities , lie a collecting of decaying mansion . Their palatial outside are grace with gold and ash grey decorations and handmade tiles , the vast interiors filled with teak wood , Venetian chandeliers , Venetian red - framed mirror , and Swiss grandad clocks . These worn and melt home tell a narration of luxury , status , and wealth date back several hundred years , a riveting glimpse into a bygone earned run average when one of the last of India ’s wealthy merchant classes turned the seemingly obscure region of Chettinad into a hub of mercantilism . But today , these ruins fuel a unlike kind of commerce , the mansions serving as a treasure treasure trove for old-fashioned dealer , collector , interior designer , and even history buffs who want to fill their homes with mementos of the past tense .

When the mansions were new , this area was debate the home ground of India ’s southerly royalty : the Chettiars . Chettinad was one of the richest areas of the country during Britain ’s compound sovereignty in the 1850s to 1940s . The merchandiser trade with legion neighboring res publica , such as Burma ( now Myanmar ) , Indonesia , Ceylon ( now Sri Lanka ) , andVietnam , and build up opulent residence to showcase all their wealth . In fact , the bad the nursing home , the more prosperous the family . Each house engage the duration of the entire street with high boundary walls , facades decorated with stucco figurines , colorful murals , and ornamental balustrades . The floor were write of athangudi tiles handmade by the famous artisans from the neighboring town . Over the centuries , more than 15,000 nursing home were establish , each spread over an expanse as with child as one and a one-half Akka and often filled with decorpurchased overseas .

These Day , many of these detailed mansion house are in decay . Some are still possess by the original ancestral family , but abandoned due to the astronomic monetary value of sustainment . Others , likeChettinadu MansionandChidambara Vilas , have been convert intoheritage hotels . Under India ’s Ancient Monuments And Archaeological Sites and Remains Act of 1958 , the hotel retain much of the structure and interior decoration for guests to enjoy . Still other abandoned homes have no real resale value , except as salvage , in part due to their location . Chettinad is essentially in the middle of nowhere , mystifying in rural agricultural India , where the nearest airport ( in Madurai ) is almost two hours away .

Mansions in Chettinad, India

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But despite Chettinad ’s distant emplacement , the region is a dream for antiquers . studio apartment One by Zero , an architecture and interior design firm based in Chennai , uses these objects to incorporate the account and art of Chettinad mansions into projection . Its architects cite intricately carved wooden threshold , piece of furniture made of wood and metallic element , and columns with decorative bases as some of the palaces ’ most famous antiques .

“ We also sleep together metal statues and colourful enamel - cake utensil that the merchants gather up from Sweden , Czech Republic , and Slovakia , along with colourful Nipponese tile and Martaban jar from China and Burma , ” order Kavya Rajendra , an architect at Studio One by Zero . “ I sleep with search for large pieces such as a wooden cavalry which I can send in front a mirror at the entrance vestibule , or a Garuda ( Hindu god ) statue on a wooden Sir Tim Rice pounder . ”

The antique marketplace in the conterminous Karaikudi , just 20 minutes from Chettinad , is a must - visit for those interested in purchase a diverse chain of mountains of item , from small antique pieces to nine - foot threshold . Muneeswaran Koil Road , a quaint bylane in the town , houses a variety of shops such as Old Chettinad Crafters and Karaikudi Antiques Market . Usually most of the shop owners have storage warehouse confining by where they store some rarer pieces . “ You just have to need if they have anything else to showcase and more often than not , they will jubilantly bind , ” notes Rajendra .

Chettinad Palace interior

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For those who choose to make the pilgrimage to these passee stores , a little noesis will go a long way when it comes to settle and purchasing material treasure . For example , Rajenda says , “ Kavadi panels ( intricately carve wooden panel used for religious practice many X ago ) are uncommon to find and hard to repeat , making them some of the most alien and expensive antiques that you could buy here . ” A fake should be apparent . And along the same lines , direct clean of colorful statues that show no signs of distressed pigment , microchip , or use . According to Rajendra , “ some vendors may claim to have retouched the antique and painted it again , but this usually means it ’s a new piece . ”

Once you ’ve ascertain an item you need to grease one’s palms , it ’s clock time to talk terms . “ you could get many of the gaffer at awe-inspiring prices if you take the time to wait around and bargain , ” says Vanathi Gururaj , who was born in Karaikudi and now exist in Bangalore . She delight shopping for pocket-sized figurines , older brass kitchen tools , and utensils . The antique stores brim with boldness cutlery , trays , multi - tiered lunch corner , Milk River cans , and cups , since brass — consider auspicious in Indian culture — was the metal of alternative for most kitchenware at that metre . “ Some of the really old one have the proprietor ’s name etched in Tamil and that brings another component of legitimacy to these old dishes , ” explains Gururaj . " produce up in this arena , I make love the account of many of these homes , so it is particularly elated when I can lend back a piece of music for myself or to give as gifts . ”

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For those who are less familiar with the area , it can be helpful to have a local like Gururaj keep company you during your trip . “They retain a deep passion for the sphere ’s culture and will help you take clip to understand the history and heritage of these mansions , which will by all odds help in treasure these rare and unique gems , ” allege Rajendra .

The life sentence of this residential district has shaped much of the narrative of this area and these heritage homes are testimony to that narration . “ And having an item from Chettinad means you are now a keeper of that story , ” says Gururaj . “ So , own it , display it , and apprize it proudly . ”

Chidambara Vilas interior

Chidambara Vilas

Exterior of mansion in Chettinad, India

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Chettinad, India mansion

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