Your guide to getting swept up in coastal Canada’s wildest season.
Sir Herbert Beerbohm Tree branch were bending under the weight of wet , arduous snow as the wind whip our van noticeably to the left . I wonder if we ’d even have power when we get to the hotel . “ You ’ve make it during a once - in - a-20 - year storm , ” our guide told us as we pilot the unplowed roads of Vancouver Island . If the purpose of my sojourn was to have coastal Canada ’s storm time of year , well , I ’d seemingly nailed the timing .
I ’d gotten to Vancouver Islandby ferry , from Horseshoe Bay . The 60 minutes - and-40 - minute boat ride to the metropolis of Nanaimo would have been a majuscule time to tuck into a book , though I could n’t resist eagle - learn from the upper deck , as my finish lay shrouded in Charles Percy Snow ahead . The crusade to Ucluelet would usually append on an extra two - and - a - one-half hour , but with the violent storm , it took almost four . My traveling still was n’t over ; in a few day , I ’d trek to Tofino , which is 30 minutes further north of there by car . I knew there would be a uncounted ofhiking trailsto wander , aNational Parkto explore , and a coolseaside saunato sojourn at my terminal destination , but violent storm - watching was my literal understanding for contract such a foresightful journey . Most of the yr , these beach towns are a seaport for surfers , hikers , beach - combers , whale - witness , and overall nature lovers . Storm time of year typically kicks off in November and stretches until the end of February , or , as I was finding out in real - sentence , occasionally into the kickoff of March .
On Vancouver Island , you do n’t have to give chase the storms , they issue forth to you . So , the best plan of approach is to stay somewhere with a balcony that has views of the moody ocean , admission to the beach , and all the cozy amenities . I choose to cleave my time between theBlack Rock Oceanfront Resortin Ucluelet and theLong Beach Lodge Resortin Tofino , both of which check off all the storm - watching box and more , like whale - observation from the lobby . I set up myself lingering at the check - in desk , scanning the Pacific through the two - level , floor - to - roof windows for any sign of the jumbo mammals .
Photo by Lauren Breedlove
The next morning , I woke up in the pitch - black and ambled outside , hop the violent storm clouds had cleared enough for me to see the sunup . consort to both the oecumenical director of the hotel and a handful of locals , I was apparently in a place that had never seen this much snow . Naturally , my first impulse was to capture it — preferably without slip on the icy rocks and tumbling into the ocean . I take it slow . Pastel pink and yellows dot the sky ; Mother Nature ’s make - up offer after a competitiveness . I gladly take the excuse and washed it down with three cups of coffee while count whale spout from the breakfast table . I was mid - bite when ethnic music at the quoin table start pointing out the rampart of windows . abandon our meals , everyone stood for a closer look . surely enough , a mammy and her calf swam in the distance , spraying water into the early morning light . My omelette would have to waitress .
Black Rock Oceanfront Resort has unmediated admission to theWild Pacific Trail , but it was cover in snow and ice . “ We ’re pretty foil here , ” our guide fromHello Nature Adventure Tours , Kevin Bradshaw , said as we set about to delay upright on the dodgy terrain . Our hiking was instead shaved down to a shortsighted nature walk in the onetime - growth forest , a territory share with the Nuu - chah - nulth First Nations people that was filled with ancient cedars .
Since we had get on the heel of the time of year ’s biggest storm , we had lack out on the thrill of the lookout man . But we still had to deal with the leftover , which meant canceled natural process like foraging , motorcycle equitation , surf lessons , hike , and more . In that situation , the only matter to do is eat , drink , and hope for another storm between bouts of banqueting . gratefully , it turn out that Ucluelet and Tofino were more than just breaker Town . I was able to get my hand on everything fromsushitoKorean BBQtopoke bowlstofine dining .
Photo by Lauren Breedlove
I also pass a fortune of clock time masses - keep an eye on from my newfangled balcony at the Long Beach Lodge Resort and toasting my toes by the in - room fireplace , as if I was exercise Vancouver Island ’s version of Nordic live - and - stale therapy . I used some of my free prison term to take a bath — a opulence I never indulge in at home . There was plenty of photographic fodder : Daring surfboarder tackle the waves while Thomas Kid clad in raincoats look for for flaxen treasures . The wind was pick up , signify another potential storm in the work . I readied the camera with my pruny hand , but no die just yet .
The next day , we were supposed to rag beach police cruiser after breakfast . But the fact that I had to physically hold my hat to keep it on my head tell me that activity would for sure be cancel as well . I was right in that assumption ; we ended up walk the nearby Chesterman Beach at blue tide and saw the undulation throw off a tantrum against the bleak rocks . The current of air madly undulate the moxie . In the length , the island lighthouse was getting hammered by whitecap .
We were in the midst of a right Pacific coast violent storm now ; sleet was assaulting my face as I pull the drawstring of my hood tighter . My oculus were tearing up . It was so loud that my group had to call out to communicate that we ’d want to go back to the car before the tempest got even worse . Then fare the lightning . It was frightening , but I could n’t help but express joy . This was what I came for , after all . Still , I was ready to de-ice in front of the said hearth and watch the vista diddle out from my balcony .
Photo by Lauren Breedlove
A few hour later , I stepped out of the much - needed hot shower bath and peer through the window — my young routine here on the island . It appear the storm had harry the shore , topnotch - stoked surfer were already reemerging onto the beach . By the time I was dressed , a small gap in the cloud had given way to an heroic sunset . I grabbed my camera and threw on a pelage , sprint out to the beach like a maniac with soaking - wet fuzz , intelligibly ignoring the puerility warning from my parent that it ’d make me sick .
I made it just in time to capture several photos of the conniption , and as I turn down my camera , I found my own beach treasure down at my feet — a perfectly whole backbone dollar that had survived yet another storm season on Vancouver Island . It turn out that storm watching was about letting go of programme , choose it slow , and savoring the fact that you ’re not the one in control . It was a everlasting contrast to how I unremarkably traveled , and I was hooked .
Photo by Lauren Breedlove
