Conservation and cultural exchange in the Jordanian wilderness

When you think ofJordan , you probablythink of Petra , the cherry - hued ruins of an ancient metropolis so breathtaking they ’re consider one of the Seven Wonders of the World . ButFeynan Ecolodge , situate about two hours from Petra in eastern Jordan ’s Wadi Feynan , is another marvel worthy of a sojourn .

The smooth hits you on reaching . After you check in at response , you ’re still a bouncy half - hour drive away from the main building , trading out your own transportation to hop into a 4x4 trunk that ’s better equipped to handle the harsh roads through theDana Biosphere Reserve . While you ’ve sure as shooting passed a few minor communities ( and a few acute games of juvenility football game ) on your way to Feynan , the area straight surrounding the Sir Oliver Lodge is populated by only a handful of Bedouin community of interests . It ’s a place where you could see the furrowed hills of the Great Rift Valley sprain pink in the evening luminousness , with only an occasional local and their herd of Goat for company .

In unretentive , as I realized upon stumbling out of the 4x4 after the bumpy drive , you ’re reallyout there .

Feynan Ecolodge in desert

Photo courtesy of Feynan Ecolodge

The Dana Biosphere Reserve overlay 320 square kilometers of dry land , and is home to some of Jordan ’s most diverse nature , admit around 700 different plant species and over 250 animal species . Perhaps this is why it ’s voiceless to shake the impression that Feynan ’s context is n’t mean to be disturbed . But this look is what inspired the ecolodge in the first place .

Built in 2005 by the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature ( now under the management of EcoHotels ) , Feynan is Jordan ’s first ecolodge , make with the hope of opening up the area to outside visitors while providing locals with an alternative source of income . Every component of the hotel is design in accordance with those twin approximation of cultural exchange andenvironmental attention .

inspire by caravan culture , each of Feynan ’s 26 guest rooms is arranged around a large receptive courtyard , where alternatively of camel ( as it would have been back in the geological era of trading posts ) , guest congregate into the eve . The building ’s design ( let in the stone slabs near the entrance ) grant for by nature controlled heating plant and cooling . And while constituent like drinking water deliver in oversize clay pots point to reducing the society ’s environmental footprint , almost everything you give up in the name of ecology just adds to the experience and ambiance .

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You can watch sun sink behind the rugged hills around the ecolodge.|Photo courtesy of Feynan Ecolodge

No electricity after dark other than solar - power overhead lamps in ensuite bathrooms ? Let me put in you to the modality - set power of candlelight , both in public domain and client rooms . In the rooms , mirror - trace shelves hyperbolise flicker of light , something no lamp could repeat . drop the core at dinner party ? No , you did n’t , thanks to the power of Feynan’sArabic buffet , featuring falafel , Malva sylvestris , locally broil bread , vegetables , and dips like hummus and mouttabal . ( Note : In alignment with the area ’s Moslem feeling , no alcohol is served — but if youmusthave a tipple , John Barleycorn is allowed on a BYOB - basis , cater you remain discreet . ) Wi - Fi is confine to the charge place by the front desk , but even as a millennial with an attachment to both work and memes , I found the restriction strangely comfort .

But perhaps the most incredible part of the Feynan Ecolodge experience is the activities that put you in verbatim tangency with the local community . you could sign on up for cooking classes , hikes , and even shadow nearby goat header , for only a small extra supplementary fee ( usually about 4 JOD , or less than $ 6 US ) , a sum that become directly to guides and class . Activities I enjoyed include a guidedstargazing experienceon the roof of the lodge , which direct advantage of the area ’s want of light contamination and subsequent unbelievable view of the Nox sky . As the guide go down up scope and traced the constellations with a laser pointer , one of the local cats crawled into my lick and began to purr . I also visited a Bedouin tent for tea , which while a transactional visit , was in full suffuse with the spirit of cordial reception .

As I sat with my Host , I learned that about 80 families ( around 400 people ) make their home in this expanse , and that they are one of the last remaining Bedouin tribes who have keep up their traditions in the face of alteration .

Sunset near Feynan Ecolodge

You can watch sun sink behind the rugged hills around the ecolodge.|Photo courtesy of Feynan Ecolodge

Why Jordan Is the Perfect Place to Start Your Middle East Adventure

Come for the ancient history, stay for swims in the Dead Sea.

As is customary , families relocate to a different location in the summer , following the same paths and huckster their tents in the same area each year ( minus any family members who must now spend the end of the school condition near the school ) . Coffee is still purchased green , then roasted and sip from a communal cup . Kohl eyeliner is still created through cauterize cotton and olive oil , and apply with a little stick .

The mission behind Feynan Ecolodge fits into the local traditions nicely , too . As a Bedouin member of staff told me , taking attention of the Earth and supporter — whether new or old — is considered a blessing . By the end of my visit , I ’d experienced plenteousness of both .

Blue Sinai Agama lizard

The Dana Biosphere Reserve is home to some of Jordan’s most diverse nature, including over 250 animal species.|Photo courtesy of Feynan Ecolodge

Feynan Ecolodge

The building’s design allows for naturally controlled heating and cooling.|Photo by Brian Scannell, courtesy of Feynan Ecolodge

Feynan Ecolodge room with candles

In the rooms, mirror-lined shelves amplify flickers of light.|Photo courtesy of Feynan Ecolodge

Feynan Ecolodge at night

A lack of light pollution means an incredible view of the night sky.|Photo by Photo by Bashar Alaeddin, courtesy of Feynan Ecolodge

Why Jordan Is the Perfect Place to Start Your Middle East Adventure

Bedouin man making coffee

Coffee is still purchased green and roasted.|Photo courtesy of Feynan Ecolodge