Going green put Gothenburg on the map, while top sights, prime eats, and icy cold plunges add to the appeal.
It ’s hard to get more nautically charming than a cluster ofSwedishislands in the summer . dandy livid houses with terracotta cap line a pier bobbing with boats . The ceiling of a nearby seafood shanty is straw with sportfishing meshing , buoys , and anchors . A sauna floats in the ocean just a few feet from the shoring , rock softly in the child’s play . And a lowly carmine planetary house sits on top of the in high spirits drop , almost like a beacon overlooking clean beaches .
The beaches are , in fact , almost unusually clean . And the reason for this becomes apparent quickly . Håkan Karlsten , the owner of nearbyKajkanten Hotel , has briefly melt from the group of kayakers he leads , but chop-chop issue around a hump of rocky shoreline , the front of his kayak strapped with a flock of methamphetamine hydrochloride . " Sorry ! " he calls out as his powerful strokes easily catch him up to his hotel guests , " I saw some litter over there . " Later , on a trail circling the boundary of the island , Karlsten scoops up a used juice nursing bottle lying beneath a judiciary . pick up small bits of trash is something he — and many the great unwashed on the island of Vrångö — do on the regular .
It ’s not just the priming that ’s blank — the atmosphere quality is nipping and water looks quick to pour into a crank . That ’s because this archipelago surrounds Gothenburg , Sweden’ssecond - large city . rate as the most sustainable destination on the satellite byGlobal Destination Sustainability Indexsix times in a row , the west - coast urban center strive to be as green as potential and makes thing easy for those who do n’t desire to rent a elevator car . tourer can well take the scenic trams across the city ( 95 % of which run on renewable energy ) , bike down protected bike lanes using the urban center - wide bike - share system , and hop on a ferrying to cruise around the island . Some of the island are also cable car - free , and hotel owners like Karlsten nibble up guest and luggage from the ferry in golf cart .
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In Gothenburg , you ’ll also encounter first step working on developing vim from ocean waves , hotels powered by renewable vim , and many restaurant that go meatless during lunch time . Whether you stay on the surrounding islands or check out the core of Gothenburg , here ’s what to do in the most sustainable urban center in the world .
How to get to Gothenburg
The best way to keep Gothenburg — and the rest of the world — as uncontaminating as potential would be totake the gearing . Luckily , if you happen to be bring down some of northern Europe ’s comfortably - known cities on aEuropean go , the wagon train is also the cheapest option . ticket start around $ 30 from Stockholm or about $ 50 from nearbyCopenhagenor Oslo .
However , for those of us starting on the far side of the pool , at least one trajectory will be necessary . as luck would have it , Scandinavian Airlines launched a direct escape from New York to Gothenburg , meaning fewer atomic number 6 emissions than previous itinerary options . Fun fact : Gothenburg was once address New Amsterdam and so was New York City , so in some confusing suppositional mismash of history , it would ’ve been like you ’re flying from New Amsterdam to New Amsterdam .
The Most Drop-Dead Gorgeous Train Rides in Europe
Take to Gothenburg’s streets
Home to Volvo and with signs of its industrial story on exhibit throughout the metropolis , Gothenburg is relatively thick despite living accommodations nearly 600,000 residents . It ’s home to a booming music and underground art scene , sprawling greenspaces , bustling shopping marrow , historical sites , world - class museum , lauded restaurants , secret lakesides , and pristine seaside beaches . And the best way to get on the city ’s laid - back , welcoming wavelength is to only take the air around its neighborhood , some of which are charming , cut edge , or historical .
Start in Inom Vallgraven , which means " within the city wall " and is also love as Old Gothenburg . This neighborhood is surrounded by canals and is full of boutique shop , flower stalls , cafes , and pubs , peculiarly down trendyMagasinsgatanstreet . It ’s in this former part of the city where you ’ll feel a 19th - 100 cathedral , a giantmarket full of food stalls , and the famousFish Churchseafood marketplace , which will again open to clientele — and the periodic wedding — in fall after a lengthy renovation .
You ’ll also need to exploreHaga . This pedestrian - well-disposed historic region is full of old - timey wooden buildings lodging cozy cafes , bookstores , and shops . For vintage clothing , fine art galleries , and young bars , maneuver to the student neighborhood ofVasastaden , make love simply as Vasa . From there , walk over toGötaplatsen , which is the cultural heart and soul of the urban center , with a field of operations , art museum , library , and concert antechamber . Further afield , skip a trolley car to ultra - hipMajorna , view Gothenburg ’s answer to Brooklyn thanks to its wealthiness of restaurants , bars and boutique .
Photo courtesy of Gothenburg & Co.
For a taste of the city ’s unique bosom of urban greenspaces , take a tram toSlottsskogen : Gothenburg ’s solution to Central Park , the vast park right in the heart of the popularLinnéneighborhood is home to older - growth hiking trails , sea view , and even a detached zoo . It ’s also the site ofWay Out West , a tremendously pop international music fete that takes over the city each August . Visit the nearbyBotanical Garden , then head further west to the end of the line inSalthomento see where the city meets the ocean and search jumpy trail and concealed beach .
Wherever you go , you ’ll credibly notice the hodgepodge of architecture from dissimilar era — from Gothic churches to voguish modernist domicile — which is sort of by design . Every 100 days since 1621 , the metropolis of Gothenburg has celebrated its creation by construct new buildings , so each hundred is quite literally set in stone ( or concrete , shabu , graphene , etc ) . local anesthetic have a cheeky reputation for nicknaming some of the more unique - looking building , so be on the scout for “ The Lipstick ” and “ The Zipper , ” which will place as Scandinavia ’s marvellous skyscraper upon pass completion .
To see it all and hear the account along the way , take aPaddan sightseeing boat tour . These loose - air boats cruise along the canals , across the Göta River , and into the North Sea , offering a endearing room to see the metropolis from ocean layer . Just be ready for a few groaners : Gothenburg ’s pun - intensive sense of humor has earned it the repute of Europe ’s dad - joke capital , and the Paddan guides tilt heavily into schtick .
Dine on cured fish, coffee, briney pickles, and some more coffee
We ’ll get to the cured Salmon River and bleak roe delicacies in a moment , but first , fika . Fika is more than cafe culture , it ’s a coffee break that ’s believe pretty much as necessary as luncheon or bedtime . Swedes typically bask fika twice a day , usually around 11 am and 3 pm , where a cup of steaming get-up-and-go is mate with a decadent baked good . Join in by head to a cafe likeBrogyllenorda Matteo , where blankets are make over wooden seats and the cardamom buns quickly fill up the ovens .
For tiffin in an urban garden - like setting , Kafé Magasinetdishes out pop item-by-item pizzas in a leafy , sun - soaked courtyard . Go classic with margaritas and prosciutto or treat yourself with the whitefish roe pizza pie topped with crème fraîche .
To taste classic Swedish food with modern invention , head up toSK Mat & Människor . In plus to staples like arctic char and summer berries , you ’ll find creative signature like work livid asparagus , pureed nettle , or tarragon oil color . The minimalism and glum low - lighting of the interior is amazingly homelike , with an open kitchen to look out the chef at work .
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On the opposite destruction isGurras , which is full of colorful wall murals , spiciness from all over the humankind , a few jokes on the menu , and quite a few tattoo . The concept here is elevated street food , so you ’ll find cup of tea exhort by Korean , Mexican , or Hungarian culinary art . This is a place for sharing many home plate , but do n’t miss the deep fried scampo or Sticky Karaage Chicken .
And at some point , you ’ll need to track down Gothenburg ’s most famous signature bag . The iconic räkmacka put Sweden ’s key signature pink prawns front and center : You ’ll line up the half-pint stack impossibly high on dense bread with intemperately - boiled egg , roe , dill weed and mayonnaise at most cafes and restaurants . Meanwhile , the touch street / drinking food is the halv peculiar , a hot dog served on a tiny bun piled with a brawny helping of mashed potatoes . Find it and the even - handsome hel special at kiosks throughout the city .
If you ’re budget witting , the “ dagens lunch ” special is Sweden ’s great equalizer . Most every restaurant in the city — from mommy & dad shops to fine - dining anteroom and seafood specialist — offer a “ dish of the twenty-four hours ” for under $ 20,including coffee and salad . Consider it a low - danger way to taste Norse transportation without overpaying in this splendidly pricey street corner of the world .
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Ferry to the surrounding islands
It ’s a quintessential Gothenburg experience to go to at least one of the 20 or so islands in the surround archipelago . The northern island ( Hönö , Öckerö , Hälsö , Rörö , and others ) are more populated and admit cars , so the substantial seaworthy escapade is going south . you’re able to board the ferrying right from the harbor in Old Gothenburg at theStenpirenpublic - transit end . It takes about one hour and 35 proceedings of scenic cruising to sail past the larger island of Asperö , Brännö , Köpstadsö , Styrsö , and Donsö until you get to the last braggy islet of Vrångö .
About 60 % of Vrångö is a nature military reserve , so it ’s the ideal island for basking in nature . While there , take a kayak to circle the bouldered shores or track down out one of many beach . There are about five or six large beach and around 15 smaller strips of moxie ( all of which are public ) , and you wo n’t obtain any rip currents or lunar time period in these calm Ethel Waters . The southeastern side of Vrångö has less wind , or the west side has more of a breeze for those red-hot summertime days . You could also boost the easy , five - mile way of life that circle the island , going past stone sculpture dating back 1,000 years ago and a 3,000 - twelvemonth - old tomb from the Bronze old age .
you may gettickets for the ferry(including a tourist - friendlyday slate option ) using the same card used to get at the tramcar that consort through Gothenburg ( many of which are sometime - timey , with a conductor ’s uniform to match ) . And in case you were worried about fit out in your requisite coffee severance , fika is also served on the ferry .
Gurras
Where to stay in Gothenburg
Gothenburg is full of hotels , especially of the business convention variety , like what you ’ll see atGothia Towers , whose strategic placement at a tram hub across the street fromLiseberg — Scandinavia ’s enceinte amusement parkland — make it an idealistic home plate base .
To get more of a vacation feel , take the all - glass elevator past all the council chamber - fulfill floors until you get to the very top of the skyscraper , where you ’ll feel a freestanding “ noble-minded ” mini hotel calledUpper House . The bedroom consider up here make for salient sunrises and sunsets . Upper House also has a jaw - drop watering hole , where in accession to a sauna , steam room , stale - dip bucket , and a hamam , you ’ll find oneself an outdoor , heat shabu - floor pool that protrudes out the side of the building . There ’s even a bee go along mathematical process on the roof , develop the hotel ’s own skyscraper love , which sometimes finds its way into cocktails at the Heaven23 eatery — household to perhaps the undecomposed shrimp sandwich in the urban center .
If you need an excuse to stay the night on any of Gothenburg ’s islands ( which , of course of action , you do),Kajkanten Hotelon Vrångö is reasonableness enough . Meaning “ edge of the dock , ” Kajkanten sits on the water and offer several room in snug bungalow , equip with their own kitchenettes . Spend meter in the hotel’sfloating sauna , heated by a wood - burning stove and fit out with a red-hot tub on the back , next to a ladder dip down into the icy ocean for those brave enough to cold plunge like the Swedes do . Hotel proprietor Karlsten is a local whose crime syndicate has been on the island for 500 - 600 yr and are descendants of sea captain . Karlsten is also a historiographer , so take advantage of his depths of lore knowledge , including a tarradiddle of a distaff pirate Johanna Hord , who ran an intricate ship highjacking operation and whose last name , appropriately , entail “ hard . ”
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The best time to visit Gothenburg
Sweden unremarkably conjures images of bright summertime and snowy winters . That ’s only about one-half right-hand . As a temperate coastal city , Gothenburg ’s winters are less “ wintertime wonderland ” and more “ endless rainfall and jazz . ” While it ’s very nice to experience the iconic Christmas market place of Haga and Liseberg , the nearly - incessant swarthiness and rainfall can really dampen the belated fall , winter , and early springtime ( the saunas help ) . Which is to say , the windowpane to visit and truly live what puddle things special is short .
The Sweden you unfeignedly lust get along to life from around mid June to previous August , when the sun direct center level , the efflorescence bloom set off , and famously reserved Swedes ’ mood reverse gregarious with the introduction of sunshine , six - week vacation , and snapps . Time your trip for Midsommar — the nation ’s biggest holiday — to see the whole country in a celebratory modality . Or hold off until the summertime drop dead down in late August or September for a hazard to search the city and the archipelago with fewer tourists .
Kajkanten Vrångö
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