Tap Into the Past & Toast to the Future in Ireland's Rebel County

From the Blarney Stone to the Butter Museum, cultural riches await.

When Queen Elizabeth II passed away at the age of 96 before this month , I could n’t facilitate but cerebrate about my late grandmother . She grew up in Trinidad under British rule , the daughter of a Venezuelan female parent and a white Church Father of Scottish declivity . And even though she moved to the States after meeting my Brooklyn - born Italian grandfather , she remained an English loyalist to her core . It was all about God , kinsperson , and the Royals — in that parliamentary law .

So you could imagine my surprise when myFamilyTreeDNA test outfit — administered on a whim out of tepid oddity — derive back declare that I was neither Scottish nor English , but a humongous 33 % Irish . That ’s right : My nan , despite her almost zealous love for the House of Windsor , her commitment to writing “ Trinidad , British West Indies ” on letter home long after the island gained independence from the Crown , and her reverence for the Campbell tartan that had me swathed in green and blue plaid as a child , was , at least genetically , a daughter of the Republic .

I had been to Ireland once , to Dublin and Galway , and fell deeply in love with the Emerald Isle , both its landscape and its people . pit , I even watched hurling from time to time . After a bit more digging , I hear that a large majority of my chemic makeup originated in County Cork on the island ’s southwestern shore . And examine as I ’d late agree to joinNorwegian Cruiselinefor the christen ocean trip of thestate - of - the - art Prima linerthat just so happened to dock in Cork — I knew I had to murder the streets .

St. Colman’s Cathedral at sunset

Matt Anderson Photography/Moment/Getty Images

Ireland ’s second most thickly settled city , Cork City is often overshadowed by the capital , Dublin , with its massive airport and many holidaymaker draws . But the entire region is plethoric with intriguing historic and ethnic internet site , standout restaurants and pubs , and breathtaking street artistic production . Here ’s everything to do when visiting County Cork , from beat out pints of Murphy ’s Stout and sampling locally made black pudding to celebrating the Republic ’s courageous ragtag - rousers .

Cruise over to Cobh for historic seaside vibes

If you down in the county via cruise ship , like I did , you ’ll be docking at Cobh , a picturesque seaside town about 30 minutes by train from Cork City . Cobh — pronounced “ cove ” for those of us who do n’t address Gaeilge — has long function as one of Ireland ’s key points of deviation , as evidenced by the famous Annie Moore Monument guarding its wharf : three figures range in bronze , exemplify young Moore , the first person the enter the US through Ellis Island on January 1 , 1892 , alongside her two brothers , Anthony and Philip .

Yet while Moore ’s story was a happy one , not all voyage throw off from Cobh ’s larboard ended quite so luckily . On April 11 , 1912 , the groundbreaking ocean liner RMS Titanic left Cobh on its maiden sail en road to New York . Three days later , well , you already know what happened . In 1915 , just as World War I was set about to rage up , a British passenger steamship telephone the RMS Lusitania was coin by a German U - Boat just 20 kilometers from Cobh ’s unspecific marina . The Lusitania quickly sank , accept more than 60 % of those onboard with it . you may learn all about these excruciating events and more — including particular about the forced expatriation of yard bird and bound retainer to other British colony — at theCobh Heritage Centrejust off the docks , while down the path , the Titanic Experienceoffers visitor an immersive look into that act of maritime history . Perhaps not the sunniest educational excursion , but a gripping one to be sure .

Afterwards , cheer yourself up with a stroll through the seaport ’s many shops and restaurants , stopping to take in the sea breeze before ascend up the mound to St. Colman ’s Cathedral . Built in 1868 , it ’s a gorgeous piece of architecture arrant with resplendent aspect . Keep trekking up the road from there , and you ’ll stumble intoMansworths Bar , a narrow-minded , two - room pothouse date back to 1895 . postulate the barman for a pint of Murphy’s — County Cork ’s result to Guinness — and adjudicate into a booth to look up to the knick knacks and historical artifacts covering the walls . And lest you call up you finally escaped the wreck stories , a brass on the front wall states : “ In 1912 , when the Titanic was here , it is likely that ale and intellectual nourishment were served by them [ sic ] to outgoer during the American backwash that preceded their divergence . ” Perhaps a shot of Jameson ought to be in order , too .

boats in harbor

Photo courtesy Luke Myers / Fáilte Ireland

Tie one on at the Jameson Distillery

Speaking of whiskey , a stumble to the iconicJameson Distilleryis a clutch agenda move in these parts . The brand ’s formal Old Midleton Distillery has been cranking out the juice since 1825 , and offers an 60 minutes - long behind - the - tantrum tour that follow the revered spirit ’s production from caryopsis to glass . Finish your lesson with a relishing guided by trained ambassadors , and then pop over to resident snack - purveyorFred ’s Food Truckfor a sandwich stuffed with spiked ingredients like Jameson - glazed bacon and whiskey - marinade pulled porc . “ Slainte ” never tasted so estimable .

Give your credit card a workout on St. Patrick Street

Cork City ’s supremely magic business district revolves around St. Patrick Street , a bustling riverfront thoroughfare lined with stores , gin mill , eatery , and other retail crowd - pleasers . You could easily pass an afternoon poking your head into unlike storefronts ; window shopping at famed department stores like Brown Thomas , Debenhams , and Marks & Spencer ; and inventorying your treasures while post at a sunny pavement cafe , pint in manus . earthbound - favorable side streets snake in the grass off St. Patrick ’s , each providing their own meshing of independent bookstore , wear boutiques , guile display , and eateries .

Dive into the county’s rebellious past

It ’s not all wool perspirer and couturier handbags around here . Cork has long been make love as Ireland ’s rotatory uppercase , and the urban center is littered with monuments , museums , and other marking commemorate its script in the Republic ’s conflict for freedom along with other social justice sideline .

Start atthe National Monument on Grand Parade , located just to the south of St. Patrick ’s Street in Cork City . Dating to 1906 , the hulky Gothic , steeple - corresponding body structure pays tribute to multiple rebellion spanning 1798 , 1803 , 1848 , and 1867 . Depictions of Irish patriots Wolfe Tone , Michael Dwyers , Davis Crowley , and O’Neill Crowley stare out from each of four corners , while an eight - foot - high rendering of Mother Erin watches over them from the center .

From there , turn your attention to the fresh mintedMary Elmes Bridge , a striking pedestrian and cycling track connecting nearby Merchants Quay to St Patrick ’s Quay over the River Lee . Dubbed “ the Irish Oskar Schindler , ” Elmes ( a Cork native ) singlehanded rescued upwards of 200 Judaic child during the Holocaust , often hiding them in the body of her car and smuggle them to safety .

pint of beer

Photo by Meredith Heil

Nano Nagle , another Cork legend , has not only been yield an eponymous bridge but also a fascinating museum complete with beautifully manicure gardens , archives , and a cemetery just across the river . Open to the world , Nano Nagle Placecelebrates the life of the 18th Century Polemonium van-bruntiae worker who , despite strict inhibition from the British , opened a bounty of Catholic schools and other imagination for Ireland ’s poorest women and children . In 1775 , she founded Sisters of the Presentation , a spiritual congregation that go along to combat poorness via didactics and outreach to this day .

Over in Béal na Bláth , a village about 30 minutes west of Cork City , stands theMichael Collins Ambush Memorial , a gated stone hybridisation mark the spot where the Cork - support Irish Civil War fighter met his fateful end back in 1922 . oddment piqued ? you could always see Liam Neison impart Collins back to spirit inthe standout 1996 biopic , Michael Collins . Or study more about the darling revolutionary , soldier , and political figure IRL at theMichael Collins House Museumin Clonakilty , another 20 - or - so - minute drive down the route from Béal na Bláth . The interpretive centre takes visitor through Ireland ’s centuries - old quest for independence , highlighting the use Collins played in the struggle along with the old actors that influence his path .

Stock up on snacks at the English Market

Downtown Cork ’s English Market is one of the oldest covered markets in all of Europe . It ’s been in business continually since 1788 , a collection of vendors reset the throat their wares beneath canary scandalmongering canopy and hand - painted signage . The food market remains buzzing with activity during working hour , with shoppers filling the aisles in search of topically cultivated green goods , baked goods , gourmet sweetness , fresh seafood and meat , and inclined solid food . snap up a fragrant artisan loaf from the Alternative Bread Company , pick up some burgers infused with Irish black pudding from mob - run O’Flynn ’s Gourmet Sausages , or adulterate up on sandwich crammed full of aged nitty-gritty , sun - dry out tomatoes , and in the altogether milk mozzarella from the Sandwich Stall before recede to the mezzanine cafe to enjoy your finds with a side of prime mass - observance .

Head out on a street art scavenger hunt

In October 2020 , a pandemic - bear project calledArdúembarked on a mission to translate Cork City into one giant work of artistic creation . They ab initio brought together seven renowned Irish artists and unleashed them upon the city , arming them with light touch , blusher , and limitless creativeness . For stirring , they turned to the narration of the combustion of Cork , channeling the city ’s heaven-sent salary increase from the ash tree after it burned to the ground in 1920 .

After the completion of the project ’s second installment in 2021 , 11 centre - enamor , large - musical scale mural from the likes ofGarrath Joyce , Deirdre Breen , Asbestos , Aches , James Earley , and more can be find traverse walls , doorways , and alley around Cork . Download a map off Ardú ’s website and gain the pavement in an attempt to collect them all .

Kiss the Blarney Stone, if you’re so compelled

Built in 1446,Blarney Castleis indisputably one of Cork County ’s most popular attractions . The stone monster place about 20 proceedings outside of Cork City has been draw and quarter major crowds for centuries , many of whom are determined to pucker up and kiss the the three estates ’s notable Blarney Stone . It ’s said that anyone who suspends themselves upside down against the ancient rock and touches their lips to its craggy control surface will be given the “ gift of gab , ” or the ability to sweet talk for the rest of your day . In the time of COVID , however , this might not seem like the good deal , even withthe castle ’s young guard and sanitizing communications protocol in place . But to each their own .

Get spooked at the Cork City Gaol

Back in Cork , it ’s hard to omit the hulkingGaol . The endocarp rook - like former prison is perched across the River Lee from idyllic Fitzgerald Park , and the cold fort is anything but welcoming — despite its lush gullible grounds . Opened in 1824 , the jail housed hundreds of captive until its occlusion in 1923 , include hoards of Irish nationalist incarcerated by the reigning British during the Civil War and War of Independence .

exit to rot in disrepair for decades , the jail was later gut - revamped and converted into a museum open to the public in 1993 . Today , visitors can wander the prison ’s stark halls , peer into cramp cadre , poking their heads into the relatively cozy governor ’s government agency , and learning all about the building ’s past tense , from jailbreak attempt to famous inmates . If you ’re so fain , you’re able to even rent out the slammer for your next big event — weddings , it seems , are a strangely popular booking .

Churn up at the Butter Museum

Did you know that in the nineteenth 100 , Cork lay claim to being the largest butter exporter in the entire earthly concern ? No joke . reveal that fun fact and so much more at the utterly charmingButter Museum , tuck away in the city ’s quaint and historical Shandon area . The museum sits across from a curious round edifice that once served as the Butter Exchange , the industry ’s key hub . A brief telecasting is followed by a series of exhibit documenting the chronicle of dairy farm production in Ireland and how Irish butter — specifically Kerrygold — has come to define the country ’s agricultural economy ( despite margarine ’s early-1980s coup attempt ) .

The entire museum is well worth the modest introduction fee , but on a higher floor is where the true star of the show awaits . There , you ’ll find a firkin ( AKA wooden keg ) stuffed full of 1,000 - year - old butter that ’s been preserved in a naturally atomic number 6 - protective peat peat bog . We ’re talking medieval bog butter , staring back at you through plexiglass display paries . If those curds could talk , eh ?

Eat your way through Kinsdale, Cork’s colorful culinary gem

love for its Crayola - hued house , Kinsale is a unnerving lunchtime address when exploring Cork City . The walkable street are dotted with beckon businesses , from quirky talent shop class likeCanvas Works , Stone Mad , andGranny ’s Bottom Drawerto Michelin - commend bars and eating place . Snag a table at Max ’s on Market Street for artfully plat local chow , drop by Milk Market Cafe for coffee tree and smoothie behind a azure shopfront , or drop into the aptly named Fishy Fishy for some of the unspoilt and freshest seafood in all of Europe .

Jameson building