Colorful “gozzo” boats—and their tiny replicas—are just as Instagram-worthy as anything in Puglia.
It was former May , and every day for the retiring three weeks , I ’d cash in one’s chips a characterless shed on my morning walk to thebeach . Potted shrubs disguise most of its pit social system , but through the bars of an smoothing iron gate , I could sometimes catch a coup d’oeil of a man hunch over over a bench . The rhythmic scraping of Sir Henry Wood was the only sound to offend the morning calm , apart from the click of espresso cup from the coffeehouse next door .
This was in a charming butoverlooked townof 50,000 soulfulness on Italy ’s heel . Pugliais home to its fair share of picturesque , Instagram - suitable backcloth , like the capricious trulli houses of Alberobello , or the postcard - arrant town of Polignano a Mare . But where I was , the crimson and blue gozzo boats were the main attraction . And it was n’t until I finally mustered up the courage to approach the shed that I met the toy dog boat maker of Monopoli .
“ Buongiorno , prego , prego , " he said , waving me inside .
Photo courtesy of Natasha Bazika
Ignazio Amodio had a spacious smile etched with lines deep than the Adriatic itself , as well as bronze and leathery skin . And like most of the multitude who call Monopoli home , the sea is his muse . Before sunup , its fisherman veer down the windy route on Vespas and board rusty , chipped fishing boats . They revert an 60 minutes before sunset to coiffe up boxes of fresh fish , octopus , calamari , and scampi . Their customers are local anesthetic , who have a saying : Monopoli is a town build both on and by the sea .
Amodio usher me into his sanctuary , where the melodic phrase hung cloggy with the scent of sawdust and brine . boat ropes handbuild like fertile maritime serpents , framed photographs peeked out from cluttered ledge , and piece of Sir Henry Wood were dissipate everywhere . Once deep down , he pointed to a frame on the wall crammed with faded photographs , including one of a homo clutch the oars of a colorful gravy boat . Amodio followed my regard , then tapped his chest with a proud smiling .
Just as I fumbled for my translator app , a cleaning woman with loose , wavy dark pilus and a vintage film camera slung over her shoulder stepped inside . She tested out languages to see how we might communicate — a volley of Italian , followed by a smattering of French , then finally a crisp “ hello . ”
Photo courtesy of Natasha Bazika
Suddenly , Amodio ’s story extend : He was one of six boys , but the only son to follow his grandfather into boatbuilding at the age of 15 . His brothers had all become fishermen . " The gozzo in the port , " she said . " He build some of those . ”
accord to local diarist Eustachio Cazzorla , whom I ’d met at the port a few week prior , the gozzo design originated in Albania , which is visible across the Adriatic on a clear 24-hour interval . Cazzorla told me that the Albanians once used these very boats to found sneak attacks . But over prison term , many of them settled in Monopoli , bringing their traditional boats with them .
Unlike the other ports in Italy that are full of sleek yachts , Monopoli ’s Porto Antico spills open like a toy bureau , replete with the town ’s iconic gozzo boats , which bob in the water like painted cork . Despite the dwindle down bit of fisher in Monopoli , their boats are truly everywhere : on fridge magnets , postal card , and the town ’s edition of Monopoly , which can be bought from the information center of attention inside the old fish marketplace . Just as the Eiffel Tower and the Statue of Liberty symbolize Paris and New York , these colourful vessel are synonymous with the town ’s identicalness . Sure , similar boat live in nearby cities of Bari and Trani , but not in the distinctive color pallet of chipped blue sky and sun - bleached Red .
Photo courtesy of Natasha Bazika
Meanwhile , Amodio ’s prowess not only created the charming toy gozzos in his shop , but also ornamental variant for local eating house that exhibit seafood and fruits . While a magnanimous , decorative gozzo takes two month to construct , some modest ones can be complete in only a daylight or two . For week , I ’d been captivated by both the palm - sized and two - hander gozzos on show at the shop . These replicas each come complete with tiny oar and a stand — their intricate detailing the mark of Amodio ’s craftsmanship . And they were a steal at € 25 for the bombastic size of it and € 20 for the pocket-size translation .
" Un piccolo gozzo , per favore , " I articulate , pointing at the miniature masterpiece . Amodio smiled . He swathe the gozzo in charge plate as sun streamed through the windowpane , catching the detritus motes dancing in the zephyr .
Photo courtesy of Natasha Bazika
