The isle where cars and bicycles are banned has been home to countless writers, artists, and creatives over the decades. Today, Hydra still provides creative inspiration to those wander its shores.
Perhaps well known in the English - speaking earthly concern for serve as Leonard Cohen ’s home for much of the 1960s , the Greek island of Hydra has provided intake to author and creative person for decades . One of the Saronic island alongside Salamis , Aegina , Poros , Spetses and Agistri , Hydra is popular with Greeks and travelers alike as the complete spot for a mini rupture , although some may start the hazard of visiting , falling in love , and choosing to appease indefinitely . Really , just look at Leonard Cohen .
A one - town island , Hydra is based almost entirely around its bustling port , and is a infrequency amongst the Greek islands for its everlasting deficiency of wheeled DoT : railroad car , motorcycles , ATVs , and even bicycles are banned .
While Cohen is undoubtedly the island ’s most famous originative resident , he was far from its first . Hellenic artist Nikos Hadjikyriakos - Ghikas(whose menage now serves as one of themost interesting museum in Athens ) lived in an 18th - century residence built by his great - great - enceinte - grandfather leave out the town . From there , he produced hundreds of painting and sketches , several of which can be ascertain in his dwelling in Athens , and hosted external visitors like Henry Miller , who produced the first order of payment of his travelogThe Colossus of Maroussiwhile detain with Ghika , as well as Lawrence Durrell , whose writing about his spirit in Greece inspired the British TV seriesThe Durrells , where he was toy by Josh O’Connor .
Photo by Angelos Tzortzinis via Getty Images.
visit Hydra , it ’s hard not to see why so many brainy minds have been drawn to its shore . While an increase in tourism in recent years has changed the face of the island somewhat , it still retain its charm , particularly for those who know where to look . Whether you ’re a visitor looking for a weekend getaway from the chaos of Athens or an artist reckon to unveil the placidity and breathing in found by countless creatives before you , Hydra is an island that should not be look out over .
Travel time
2.5 hours by ferrying from Athens ’ Piraeus port
If you only do one thing: Swim in the Aegean Sea
A visit to Hydra is n’t like a sojourn to your distinctive Greek island ; you wo n’t find miles of sandy shores anywhere in good deal . rather , much of theswimmingis done off bathing political program close to the port wine , include at Spilia and Hydronetta . These platforms are fundamentally just rocky outcrops with steps leading down , that have had handrails run out on to make it easier to mount in and out of the ocean . Whether you want to go for a swimming or plainly sun yourself on a rock like a contented seal , these platforms make for a unambiguously Hydrean experience . visitant wanting a more distinctive beach experience can venture further afield , although the island ’s beach are made up of tiny pebbles , so water shoe are a saucy investment . If you ’re bet for a lilliputian beachside luxury , there’sMandraki Beach Resort , a hotel that take the island ’s only flaxen beach ( and whose dilly-dallier be a pretty cent to rent ) .
For those wait to do thing on the cheaper side , enjoy a luncheon at Lefteraki ’s Taverna before making yourself well-to-do on the pebbled beach below . water system taxis , find at the port , can also ferry you to and from several of the island ’s beach only approachable by boat . They tend to leave at placed time during the day and cost some € 40 .
Fill the weekend with…
Intellectual and artistic discovery
Considering its minute size — just under 20 straight miles and a universe of just over 2,000 — Hydra has a rich and enthralling chronicle , and has served as a place to Albanian refugees ( Arvanites ) as well as Greek revolutionaries , and , of course of study , countless merchants and seamen throughout the centuries . TheMuseum of History and Archives of Hydrais one of the first building you ’ll see as your ship pulls into port , and it ’s worth visit to learn more about the island ’s unparalleled history .
author and readers alike will also savor learn more about theHydra Book Club , a collective that operates a bookstall and community center in the museum , as well as publishing an anthology of work featuring composition by both Greek and external writer who have lived on Hydra from the 1930s to the present . In the words of Josh Hickey , the founder of the order who lives on the island for half the year when he is n’t in Warsaw or Paris , “ Hydra Book Club has created a unexampled literary hub for everyone living on or visiting the island . ”
The Cohen family has continued to seek inspiration from the island , too;Leonard ’s son Adamcalls the island home , and has memorialise some of his own , as well as his father ’s , medicine there , including the medicine video recording for his strain “ go On . "
Exploration on foot
Fortunately , considering the car ban , Hydra is an island best explored on foot . One of Hickey ’s favorite thing to do on the island is hike through the spate . “ Sometimes masses can get pose on the interface and in the townspeople , ” he explains . “ I love to climb up and boost out this wildly beautiful island to truly connect with it . ”
While some choose to simply hike to and from the island ’s pebbled beaches , others , like Hickey , nous to higher earth . The hiking track , which start out at the conclusion of Hydra Ithiel Town with a wide rock path , leads to theMonastery of Prophet Eliaswhich sit at an lift of 500 meters above sea level . The trek from the port takes around two time of day , but the view from the top are worth the sweat .
Cohen fan will undoubtedly want to visitthe place he called home , but unluckily , the holding , which is still owned by his house , remain closed , meaning your pilgrimage will have to end at the front door . fan do n’t let this deter them , however , with the exterior of the house becoming a popular smirch for photoshoots . Consider a pilgrimage to thePirate Baron the embrasure alternatively — in its previous life , it was a favorite spot of Cohen ’s , and it has keep on to serve as a meeting spot for artists visit the island .
Cars, neon signs, and plastic chairs are prohibited on the island.|Photo of Hydra courtesy the author
Unwinding with book, or just yourself
While the natural beauty and cultivation of Hydra is enough to keep you concern for a weekend , the best way to spend prison term on the island is , in my opinion , to grab a book of account , lead down to a restaurant or Browning automatic rifle near the porthole , read , and watch out the world go by . If you’re able to rope a friend into the exercise , majuscule , but it ’s also the perfect solo activity , and there ’s always the chance you ’ll befriend other traveller in the process . When I arrived on the island , having only booked the entire trip two days before upon my friend ’s good word , I constitute her in a bar surrounded by several Modern friends having somehow managed to find some of the only other Australians on the island with whom she ’d accumulate together to look out Australia toy against Sweden in the FIFA Women ’s World Cup .
Where to eat and drink on Hydra
Breakfast : Isalosis debate by many to serve the estimable breakfasts on the island , alongside pleasant-tasting coffee tree and homemade smoothies . If you ’re traveling solo and thus ca n’t savor one of their effete breakfasts for two , or are just looking for something light , consider a elementary breakfast of Greek yogurt and beloved .
tiffin : As someone who prefers to sleep in and skip breakfast , I opt for early lunches at some of the many restaurants down by the port , particularly Hydra ’s Corner : if you ’re there in summertime , it ’s impossible to go faulty with a delicious and refreshing Greek salad ( know ashoriatiki)with a block of feta , and occasionally a side of tzatziki and pita if you want to take up out the legal proceeding and stay a while longer .
Dinner : There are several delicious restaurants veil away in Hydra ’s back streets , but two of my favorite are Kryfo Limani and Xeri Elia Douskos , the island ’s oldest tavern and onefrequented by Leonard Cohen . When dining with friends in Greece , I prefer to order a number of appetizer ( or meze)to share , as well as a main to split if we ’re feel particularly ravenous ; deliberate you ’re on an island , enjoy some seafood is a must , in particular at Douskos , which offer an extensive seafood menu . At Kryfo Limani , which only admit Johnny Cash , consider order some home make ravisher just like Yiayia would make , like fasolakia(green bonce in a tomato and Olea europaea oil sauce ) , dolmades(stuffed vine leaves ) , or roasted chicken with lemon sauce .
British writer and resident Roger Green, leaves a stone outside the summer house of late Canadian singer-songwritter and poet Leonard Cohen in 2016.|Photo by Louisa Gouliamakia via Getty Images
Drinks : In the mid - to - late good afternoon , head around the port to Spilia Beach Bar , a vital spot overlooking its very own bathing platform where friendly waiters will wait on you toothsome cocktail in between dips in the sea . Josh Hickey recommends 1821 Hydra and L’Americano , two bar nestled in Hydra ’s back streets , away from the crowded port .
Where to stay on Hydra
Being a small island , accommodation on the island is for the most part made up of boutique hotels and in camera - manoeuver guesthouses . Some of the most well - regarded hotels includeHydroussa Hotelin Votsi Square , Mistral Hotel , andPiteoussa . Those implicated about handiness and navigating Hydra ’s cobbled walk should prefer for accommodation as close to the interface as possible , like the four - starDouskos Port House .
Photo courtesy the author.
Photo by Hugh R Hastings via Getty Images
