But not without the help of their mothers.
While much of the Earth toasted the start of anew yearwhen midnight hit on January 1 , Haitians had another occasion to celebrate . The Haitian revolution , widely count the most successful expectant - scale insurrection led by enslaved masses in this hemisphere , ended victoriously on January 1 , 1804 . The small-scale but very mighty island was able to overthrow the Gallic colonial government in a feat that inspired and recreate enslaved people throughout the Americas .
Despite this bequest , and Haiti ’s proximity to the United States , many Americans make love little about the island . There are myriad ways to connect to a culture , but the chef of two newly open U.S. restaurants aim to do so via their heritage cuisine . In 2022 , formerTop ChefcontestantsGregory GourdetandChris Viauddebuted Kann and Ansemn , severally .
Gourdet ’s Kann , which was justnominated for a 2023 James Beard Award , opened in Portland , Oregon last August . “ It feel like America ask a great Haitian eatery , ” he says . On the other side of the country , Viaud transform his former pop up , Ansanm , into a brick - and - howitzer operation in Milford , New Hampshire . In wide-ranging spaces and very unlike ways , the chef fetch a taste of the island to far - flung corners of the United States .
Soursop Ice at Kann|Photo courtesy of Eva Kosmas Flores
Gourdet grew up in Queens and Viaud in the Boston suburbs . Both were assume to parents who emigrate from Haiti , and recall being absorb in Haitian - American community and culinary art throughout their childhoods . “ Outside of Formosan takeaway or lasagna night , we 100 % primarily feed Haitian food growing up , ” Gourdet says . Viaud recalls his mother renovate classicHaitian dishesin their Massachusetts home from memory . “ With a lot of non - Western cultures , it ’s not really formula that you follow , ” he says . “ It ’s more so that you have a touch , feel , and taste for the ingredients that you ’re cooking with , and you apply memories to hone those tone profiles . ”
Until recently , however , neither chef considered himself an expert in Haitian cooking . “ It was about maybe seven years ago that I did my first Haitian pop - up , and everything was , like , exceedingly wrong , ” allege Gourdet , laughing .
Both are quick to direct out that their female parent are the real top chefs when it comes to aboriginal dish . When Gourdet was bid tohost a Haitian dinnerat New York City ’s James Beard House in 2018 , he enlisted his mother ’s help . “ I was very clear that I want her to teach me how to makeeverything , and any holidays that we had together , I would stay home for like a week afterwards and we would just misrepresent together , ” he says . “ I would take a lotof distinction . ”
Griyo Twice Cooked Pork at Kann|Photo courtesy of Eva Kosmas Flores
Viaud first ventured into Haitian cuisine in 2021 , when he debut Ansanm pop ups . There was never any confusion about who was in electric charge , he says : “ I tell everyone , when it comes to Ansanm , I am not the chef . I ’m just my mom ’s chef . Whatever she say go . ”
Griot , Haiti ’s national looker of citrus fruit - marinate deep-fried pork shoulder , is on the carte du jour at both Ansanm and Kann , and both restaurants pledge to prioritise local garden truck . Their approaches vary , however , with Ansanm serving traditional Haitian patty and substantial squash soup . Highlights at Kann admit creamed collard greens , plantain brioche buns , and desserts like shavedsoursopice . Whether sweet or savory , and serve in takeaway bags or an graceful dining room , these dishful allow for a lineal , pleasant-tasting inter-group communication to a powerful bequest .
Kann restaurant|Photo courtesy of Eva Kosmas Flores
