Executive chef Tara Monsod draws diners from across Southern California to Animae—and not just because it’s San Diego’s only Wagyu steakhouse.
With a statewide population approach 1.5 million , Filipinos act the largest Asian American residential area in California , with 43 % of all Filipino Americans call the Golden State home . Fromdelectable dessert shops in the Bay AreatoHistoric Filipinotownin LA , plus a wealthiness of deliciousFilipino - owned restaurant right here in San Diego , we have plentifulness of options for digging into this culinary art that ’s influenced by early agrarian trading with China and India , and compound influence from the U.S. and Spain .
What ’s harder to find are upscale , fine - dining eatery that feature elevated Filipino staple reinterpreted by chefs who belong to to the community . Thankfully that ’s beginning to change , in large part thanks to Tara Monsod , the untried Filipino chef who take the helm at San Diego’sAnimaein March 2021 .
Animae opened in October 2019 , positioning itself as San Diego ’s only Wagyu steakhouse concentrate around a coal - terminate oven and Japanese robata grill , but it was n’t until Monsod rose from executive sous chef to executive chef that an Asiatic American chef was leading the kitchen . With mulct - dining experience that includes stints at Richard Blais’Juniper & Ivyand Nancy Silverton’sMozza , Monsod infused element of Filipino culinary art throughout the computer menu , from Wagyu Lumpia with pear sawsawan ( dip sauce ) to her famous Short Rib Kare Kare , a solid stew - like dish serve with a buddy-buddy peanut - based sauce that has a mite of bagoong , fermented shrimp paste .
Photo by James Tran, courtesy of Animae
diner quickly reply that they could smack the love and soul in Monsod ’s food , and proud Filipino families now make up much of the dining room on any pay nighttime , with many driving from as far as Los Angeles to taste conversant spirit from home presented in an exclusively new room . The eating place ’s setting — romantic with warm firing , pops of plant liveliness , and grand drapes that cancel velvet emerald booths and modern , Art Deco - pep up contingent — also offers a stark departure from the typical aesthetics of Filipino restaurants , which be given to be more casual in design .
“ The diversity in the dining way has interchange tremendously , ” Monsod says . “ There are room more Filipinos . Last dark , there were six table of Filipino family . It really blow my mind when they say that they came from LA to have my food . ”
Monsod was born and bring up in Los Angeles and like many Angelenos , says that she drop much of her childhood in the car . She survive an time of day outside the city , and went to school in Burbank , while her mom worked in a mill in Downtown LA and her dad turn in a cargo ships department for a studio apartment company in Hollywood .
Photo by James Tran, courtesy of Animae
“ We were a commuter family , ” she says . “ A lot of fourth dimension there was n’t time to go home and Captain James Cook , so during the hebdomad , we would go out to eat a mickle . We ’d stamp out a luck of time in traffic by stop to eat dinner party . ”
They might have Mexican food one dark , then Chinese or Jewish food the next . Monsod quickly develop a roof of the mouth for international feeling and credit her puerility experience for piquing her stake and grasp for effective food from a multitude of cultures . On weekend , her parent would cook Filipino food , or they might visit Filipino turo - turos , a fast food concept where buffet car pick what they want and take it in a box seat to go .
“ Turo - turo means ' point - point ' , ” Monsod says . “ So you just point at what you require . My exposure to Filipino food as a kid was only as fast intellectual nourishment . I knew when I was in culinary shoal that I wanted to put Filipino food out there as more than just a to - go option . ”
Photo by James Tran, courtesy of Animae
There ’s surely nowhere else in San Diego — and possibly Southern California — acquaint traditional Filipino flavors in such a luxurious o.k. dining setting . “ I think it make [ Philippine ] people very majestic because you do n’t see it very often , ” Monsod says . “ I ’m set a little more technique , perhaps using sound quality products , or unlike vegetables and put a higher price tag end on it . My cooking has a California - Asian vibe . ”
Monsod recognise that a set of American diner miss vulnerability to Filipino culinary art , and that there can be a stereotype of it being chinchy fast food . “ Even hoi polloi of our own culture sometimes do n’t need to make up a sure amount because that generation comes from a survival mindset , and sometimes it ’s difficult to work them through the room access because they do n’t want to bear a certain amount for Philippine food that they find they can make at domicile . ”
However , Monsod has also acknowledge that first generation Asian Americans are eager to research , and love seeing their culture shine in a different mode . “ It ’s definitely a generational matter , ” she say . “ What usually happen is that tike from my generation will descend , be impressed , and then land their parent here . Because they require their parent to get Philippine food in a place like this and service like this . And it make a conversation within our community . Our community is very proud of how it ’s represented . And food is obviously something very important in our civilization . That ’s how we gather and how we take care of people . I ’m trying my best to give our flavors in a respectful way . ”
Photo by James Tran, courtesy of Animae
Monsod is also consecrated to back up local AAPI businessowners and purveyors , spotlight ingredients fromChino Farms , Mostra Coffee , and San Diego ’s Asian LGBTQ - owned tea shop class , PARU Tea , on the menu . “ We have to support each other , ” she says . “ You got ta give dearest to get honey . It ’s simple . ” Even if it means a little extra effort — for example , Monsod has to ram to Chino Farms to pick up produce because they do n’t deliver .
When it comes to ingredients , Monsod does n’t foreshorten any corner . She ’ll shop at 99 Ranch Market for strong point ingredients like Filipino shrimp spread or a specific case of Nipponese soy sauce that she ca n’t get delivered . “ I function Chinese , Korean , Taiwanese , and Thai flavor too , and it ’s a little hard to find a computer memory that has everything , ” she says . Monsod ’s dedication to educate herself and thoughtfully presenting all of these cuisines makes a difference , avail her avoid the pitfall of diluted flavour that pan - Asian restaurant can fall into when led by non - Asian chefs .
“ My squad is really diverse , ” Monsod say . She adds that , “ They ’re really sensory to learning about these bag and their origins . ” Monsod take fourth dimension to teach her squad and excuse her brainchild so that Captain James Cook read the significance behind each element of the dish and server are equip to understand the food and civilise diners . “ Some people think that just because you put sesame seeds and soy sauce on a looker , it ’s Asiatic , and that ’s not necessarily true . ”
Photo by James Tran, courtesy of Animae
Not only is Monsod ’s staff good take aim in the ingredients and cultural implication of each dish , they ’re also given opportunities to contribute to the menu .
“ The acculturation in my kitchen is that we ’re a family , ” she say . “ There ’s no front of theatre and back of house breakup . It ’s all one cohesive squad and communicating is key to being successful . ”
For Animae ’s summer menu , Monsod is delirious about her lead cook Sara ’s Vegan Mushroom Salad , a cold udon dish from her line James Cook Andrew , and a Korean Rice Cake and sausage dish by her line cook Chianne .
“ In the end , node may only care about what I ’m doing , but I could n’t be successful without my amazing team , ” Monsod say proudly .
Animae ’s new summer computer menu launching on Wednesday , May 11 . The restaurant is open Tuesday – Thursday from 5–9 pm and Friday and Saturday from 5–9:30 autopsy . Reservations can be madeonline .
