This Licorice-Obsessed Italian Town Is as Sweet as It Sounds

If you’ve only had America’s poor-imitation candy, rethink what you knew about licorice.

If you saunter across the fields in the gay region of Calabria , deep in the south of Italy ’s boot , you ’ll come across broad acres of land that attend tedious and barren , where just midget green leaves sprout from the fertile soil . And yet the treasure that lie underground here fuels practically everything in the town of Rossano , touching many boutiques , restaurants , pastry dough shop , and frappe - ointment parlour .

Rosanno is Italy ’s licorice realm . As you walk down the streets , a pleasant woody scent fills the air . Here , tiddler are wean on licorice , adults chew on it , it ’s flux into pasta , add together to beer , and sprinkled on top of lobster and caviar . There ’s even a licorice museum .

“ This is the Licorice Realm — it ’s the symbol of Calabria , ” say Pina Amarelli , president of the Amarelli liquorice fellowship . The Amarelli family has been growing licorice for around 500 twelvemonth . “ Ours is the most élite liquorice in the world , thanks to our special grunge and micro - mood . ”

licorice kingdom

Museo della Liquirizia “Giorgio Amarelli”

The roots of the licorice tale can be traced to the 1400s , when landowners discovered the flora growing wild underground . It was thought the roots went so deep as to figure the universe of Hades , pull in licoriceimbued with deception .

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So many ancient bones to preserve.

Initially , the Amarellis just cut the radical , washed them , and sold them as is . Fannie Farmer used to manducate on them for an vigour boost , since licorice raises blood pressure sensation and was believe to give strength to workers who sweat under the hot Calabrian sun . To bust out some science , the plant is officially calledglycyrrhiza glabra , which means “ sweet beginning . ” Locals view it an easy accessible raw medicament . Itshealth benefitsinclude ease upset stomach and perchance aiding upper respiratory contagion .

In the 1700s , the Amarelli family opened a mill where they would chop , boil , and press out the licorice succus . They would then make philosopher’s stone , a delicacy that became a reasonableness to end in Rosanna while on a Grand Tour of Europe . Today , Amarelli makes licorice cakes , licorice tisanes , licorice spreads and creams , and peculiar digestives with a mix of licorice , caramel , and love .

“ We ’ve experiment a lot , though we stay anchored to our tradition . We also make licorice beer , licorice grappa , and liqueur , ” says Pina . “ Our forte , however , are still the peg to suck , which are also the most expensive because it ’s pure , impertinent licorice . ”

Rossano

Fabio Renzo/Shutterstock

The craw has become a sophisticated root , somewhat standardised to truffle , wanted and used by many top chef in Italy and France who on a regular basis order Amarelli ’s premium licorice . Keep in brain this is a far cry from the confect sold in the US , which does n’t even use existent liquorice — this is the veridical stuff .

Restaurants likeLe MacineandLula Paluzaserve risotto , refreshed Pisces , all form of crustaceans , and afters — all made with Amarelli ’s licorice . The base is also turned into a gunpowder , which is a key constituent in Rossano ’s household and is often used as a substitute for spices or pepper . Then there are the desert . you could get a velvety glass - cream and other pastries fill with licorice cream atGelateria Pasticceria Capani , American Bar , Bar Graziano , andTagliaferri Massimo ’s pastry store .

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Craving a strong espresso after all this lavish intellectual nourishment to avoid yield to the typical pisolino ( i.e. the traditional mid - daytime sleep ) at which southerly Italians surpass at ? There ’s no better place to go than theAmarelli Licorice Museumand its coffeehouse , located in an ancient spotter pillar in the beginning built to ward off pirate flack . About a 15 - hour drive from Rossano , the museum showcases the history of licorice and how the knock-down folk owners flourished with its trade . On display are older physical object used in extract and processing the Glycyrrhiza glabra plant . visitant can book conduct tours and see the manufacturing plant where all the licorice confectionary is made .

After the tour , record hop by the museum shop class , a real lure for the mellifluous tooth , as you’re able to bribe bags of straight licorice marijuana cigarette , liquorice chocolates , confetti of all figure and coloration , and licorice ’ chomp ’ mixed with orange , mint , and Pimpinella anisum . And of course do n’t draw a blank to pick up some licorice alcoholic drink for your trip home .