No, you don’t have to climb Everest.
Pulling my hood up around my face , I consider grab waterproofed pant from my backpack to layer over my fleece legging . The light pit - a - pat of drops bouncing off my rain crown does n’t concern me ; it ’s the thick clouds obscuring the mountains in front that admonish of a stiff path forwards .
Hiking theTrans Bhutan Trailin the Eastern Himalayas just as the monsoon time of year is terminate in September , at the get-go of the track ’s official reopen after a 60 - class closure , require a sure amount of preparation . Equally important — I’m reminded when I look up from my pack and see the smiling face of Dawa , the 73 - twelvemonth - sometime guide who will lead us along the Pelela to Rukubji section — is the power to sky-high embrace the moment .
“ This is Dawa , our local guide today , ” Dorji says .
Photo by Ken Spence Photography, courtesy of the Trans Bhutan Trail
I ’ve known Dorji for less than 72 hours , and despite her vernal vigor and small stature , she ’s already become a protective big sister . She douses us in worm repellant ( which also serves as a leech deterrent , I learn when she applies a thick level to my boots and the exposed plot of windsock above them where the ankles of my pants are tuck in ) . She then intrepidly navigate the lead , running up and down to confirm everyone is well - hydrated and report for , plus introduces us to local tradition ( and cheese — so much cheese ) .
“ We ’re so felicitous you ’re here , ” she ’d said when she met me at the drome a few days prior , offering a blank khata , the silk scarf symbolizing honour and goodwill . I ’d arrived on an auspicious vacation , Thrue Bab ( the Blessed Rainy Day mark the remainder of the monsoon season ) , and on the first flight of steps carrying extraneous visitors into Bhutan since the land closed its doors in March 2020 . “ It ’s been almost three long time without tourists and without work … We ’re ready , ” she said , smiling .
Now , near Pelela Pass — moot the gateway to Central Bhutan and one of the highest heap passes in the land at about 11,000 invertebrate foot — Dawa is standing next to Dorji , run casually on his overturned umbrella . He ’s wear a knee joint - length gho , belted at the shank with what appear to be plaid pajama pant , insert into rubber boots . Dawa ’s unbothered air and warm smile are contagious , and I notice the corner of my back talk have already turned up too .
Photo by Ken Spence Photography, courtesy of the Trans Bhutan Trail
We travel along Dawa down the path , his long branch set a quick pace — rubber boot notwithstanding . As we come into the vale , the temperature lift several degree and the rainwater slows . I give up to discase off my stunned layer when I notice Dawa pointing across the river . I follow his regard to find a troop of grey langur monkeys perched on the tree branches . Seemingly mirroring us , they pause for a import , watching us watching them . realise we are n’t a menace ( or perhaps just blase ) , they change state and vanish into the foliage .
Weaving our manner between waist - high grasses , bush , and wildflower , I ’m so taken with with this air pocket of beauty secreted between mess slopes and mist , I momentarily take my eyes off the trail and slip on the wet rock’n’roll . The furrowed terrain , impossibly idyllic eyeshot , sporadic wildlife sighting , and ever - exchange weather on the Trans Bhutan Trail require you to be fully present . And the just way to take it all in ( and not sprain an ankle joint ) is to slow down .
We expend the first light crisscross pasturelands and waterways , sometimes on new build pedestrian bridge and sometimes with the assist of Dawa and Dorji in spots where hopscotching from Isidor Feinstein Stone to stone is the only itinerary across the river . We cease briefly for snack and stories . That splash of yellow on the grassy hillside ? According to local traditional knowledge , Dorji distinguish us , it ’s evidence of the mustard seed the Divine Madman scattered when he make up one’s mind he ’d never claver villages whose names end with “ bji . ”
Photo by Sunny Fitzgerald
We then pass by a very vocal cow before the trail deposits us into a rural village that is likely deserted . “ Does anyone live here ? ” I ask aloud , scanning the scene for some signs of life sentence . Other than the shuffling of our boots on the walkway , the small town is silent .
An older gentleman appears , brandish from a balcony , and we tell apart well - manicured garden plots between houses , line with leafy greens . “ The villagers here are farmers , ” Dorji says . “ Today they ’re away , harvest cabbage . ”
We round a recess and fare upon Kuenzang Choling tabernacle . Three woman are take the air the perimeter , spinning prayer wheels with each step . “ Kuzu zangpo la , ” I restfully recognise them , not wanting to upset . We intermit and smile at one another , then conduct on — them returning to the prayer wheel and us to Dawa ’s sister ’s sign at the bottom of the hill .
Photo by Ken Spence Photography, courtesy of the Trans Bhutan Trail
Our hosts invite us to seat on shock in the chosham , a shrine room decorated to resemble a synagogue ’s interior . Here they serve a colourful fete of local cabbage , Rukubji spud , chicken curry , phasa pa(pork with radish and chilies ) , steamed spinach , fried Malva sylvestris , and red rice with butter tea leaf . With Dorji translate , Dawa shares memories from his childhood when he ’d extend dismissal of rice and chilies along the lead . “ They ’d go in a chemical group and sing on the way . Then they ’d last out up dance , cooking , and eating together , ” Dorji says . “ When Dawa saw our group on the trail today , it reminded him of those day , and he say he care he could go back and savour it all over again . ”
The trail was the main thoroughfare until the 1960s when the national highway was constructed . As people increasingly opted to journey by elevator car , the trail fell into disrepair and rural settlement like Rukubji became more obscure . “ People no longer had a ground to overleap by , ” Dorji says . “ Now , opportunities are limited here . ”
But , as she and Dawa explicate , the Trans Bhutan Trail is offering hope : Hikers can immerse in the raw environment , bump hamlet life , and learn about Bhutanese culture — and tourism dollars can flow beyond the typical hot spot and avail revitalise rural communities .
Photo by Ken Spence Photography, courtesy of the Trans Bhutan Trail
Dawa tells us he ’s already realize the benefits . “ When he walks the trail , he feels energized , new , and felicitous , ” Dorji say . After spending time on the trail , I completely fit .
How the Trans Bhutan Trail came to be
TheTrans Bhutan Trail is a 250 - knot cross - country pathbuilt on an ancient pilgrimage and communications path antecedently used by trader , monks , courier , and royalty . From the 16th century until the 1960s , the trail was the only way to locomote across the country , and it played a major role in the birth of Bhutan .
With the construction of the national main road in the 1960s , the track fall into disrepair . In 2018 , the Bhutan Canada Foundation , the Tourism Council of Bhutan , and His Majesty , the Fifth King of Bhutan , solve together to launch a renovation initiative . Residents , scouts , and De - suups ( volunteer peacekeeper ) joined the efforts , and during the pandemic , furlough workers also found employment on the trail .
Today , the trail stretch from Haa near Tibet to Trashigang near India , once again volunteer the possibility of connection — to communities , to Bhutan ’s history and culture , and to fellow travelers .
Photo by Ken Spence Photography, courtesy of the Trans Bhutan Trail
Choose the type of hike you want to do
you’re able to hike up a section over a couple days or the entire trail over about a calendar month . you’re able to also prefer the floor of guidance and accompaniment you need ( great news for travelers that favour a fullysupported hike ) .
Bhutan requires foreigners to be attach to by a scout when visiting the body politic , regardless of whether or not they hike up the lead . So while the trail is mark and anapp with maps is available , a ego - guided hiking is n’t presently an option for outlander . Even if this linguistic rule change in the futurity , a guided rise is still the best manner to go . Foregoing a local guide would mean missing out on the cultural , historical , and ecological insights they offer . Not to name the benefits of someone to voyage the terrain , weather condition , and potential wildlife ( yes , there are Bengal tigers and Himalayan black bear in Bhutan ) .
you may conjoin a chemical group and hike some of the highlighting of the trail for 11 - 12 days withG Adventures , the prescribed small group partner of the Trans Bhutan Trail . Or , if you prefer a private trek , book directly with theTrans Bhutan Trail . They have a selection of itineraries to take from , ranging from one to 35 nights , and a diverseness of fitting are uncommitted , from camp out to 5 - star hotels .
Photo by Ken Spence Photography, courtesy of the Trans Bhutan Trail
Where to eat, sleep, and see more
While you ’re trekking , you must take advantage of any opportunity to eat some ema datshi , the national dish of Bhutan . It ’s made of high mallow and chilies , and you ’ll find it all over the land . Babesa Village Restaurantserves a specially good one , along with other Bhutanese food in a heritage star sign in the country ’s capital , Thimphu .
While in Thimphu , you could ascertain out designer thread atChuni Dorji Privé . Though if you want a more local experience , the vendors at Pelela Pass sell beautiful chatter fleece scarves .
If you are trekking the Pelela Pass to Rukubji section , reckon a stay atGangtey Lodgewhere you could run up prayer flags , participate in a spiritual cleansing , and soak in a traditional - style hot Harlan Fisk Stone bathing tub . Bhutan also has a reach of 5 - mavin accommodations across the country , many site along the Trans Bhutan Trail .
Photo by Sunny Fitzgerald
And since you ’ve already progress up your stamina and acclimated to the altitude , consider include an superfluous day to trek toTiger ’s Nest . This cliffside monastery is even more telling in person , and there are several viewpoints and a coffee bar where you could rest and refuel .
For the First Time in Decades, the Trans-Bhutan Trail Is Open for Business
Here’s what you need to know to get trekking.
